I have a 2000-380 DA. I think I...

[Chris-380]

I have a 2000-380 DA. I think I am getting some water around the tide dripless shaft seal. I see the extra, still unused fist forward of the original. 

how hard and what is the proper way to replace this. 

also, any info on the prosecute/steps on how to pull the prop, shaft and change to the newer version would be appreciated also

thank you for any help/advice/insight!

[wingless]

The best way is to yank the boat and correct the problem on the hard.

The dripless seal (if original) is probably the Tides Strong Seal. If so, it has reached / exceeded the service life and should be replaced. When I did mine I used the Tides Sure Seal.

When I service mine I move the inactive seal to the active position and put a new replacement into the seal carrier.

Do not forget to use a seal protector when removing / replacing the shaft.

This reply shows how I used lapping compound on my couplers and props. I also cross lapped to attain best fit. The original parts fit horrible, now a uniform contact pattern.

https://www.thehulltruth.com/4369688-post7.html

Get a prop puller. I have a pair of correctly sized 1-13/16" combination wrenches for the props and plenty of 5/32x2"(minimum) cotter pins for that service. (I cheat on the coupler and only bend over one side, permitting reuse of that cotter pin.)

The bolt removal on the coupler is "easy" just use a combination wrench on one of the four nuts, chocked to the hub and the hull for removal of that center nut. Similar process for loosening the four bolts. Reverse for installation.

The hardest part is detaching the coupler. I tap w/ a baby Thor hammer. Lapping after removal is THE BEST step to ensure future removal is as easy as possible.

Here is the seal protector.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50029500446_79694b4984_z.jpg

When I remove / replace my shafts I always polish the shafts. Span across a step ladder and long random back / forth sandpaper motions. It is helpful for removing the seal grooves.

Whenever I change the seal I slightly shift the seal carrier. I have painted marks on the hull tube showing the hose positions that I've used.

[Chris-380]

Thank you Wngless, I am so thankful for your experience and patience on this forum

[wingless]

There are two inspections that are periodically required. I perform them annually.

One, disconnect the raw water hose at the dripless seal and cap off the seal hose barb. Operate the engine and ensure sufficient raw water flow, per the spec.

Two, engine off, hose disconnected from dripless seal. Ensure sufficient raw water intrusion into bilge when hose barb unobstructed.

The original seal had only one hose barb. For the replacement, get both seals w/ two hose barbs and install a crossover hose. That will permit operation w/ only one engine running.

Check the molded engine hoses and the tee fitting for condition. Squeeze the hoses to ensure they are supple, not caked internally w/ exhaust rust. Replace if required.

Disassemble the tee fitting and do a visual inspection for internal accumulation. Replace if required.

Don't delay performing this surface.

It can go from bad to unacceptably worse in the blink of an eye.

[wingless]

The old Strong Seal has a smooth coupling hose, for attachment to the hull tube.

The new Sure Seal (if that is the selection) has a more flexible ribbed tube.

My experience is that engine alignment is much easier w/ the more rigid tube.

It might be useful to get the engine alignment to be dead-on balls accurate before the swap.