I have a small leak on my port...
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06-21-2020 05:29 AM
I have a small leak on my port side dripless on a 2000 SR410 with cat diesel. Anyone that has this configuration will know that the dripless is very hard to get at, tucked back in the V drive. Replacing it requires pulling the boat which I do not plan to do until winter storage. Given the difficulties in accessing it, I am wondering if anyone has had experience in moving the rotor a tiny bit inward to tighten the friction face. I realize there is a factory setting for tension of the bellows but after 20 years the bellows may be relaxing a bit and a little more pressure may stop the small leak so I have a perfectly dry bilge.
Second question, there is a selection of dripless available, anyone have a recommendation for the replacement when the time comes?
I have attached a picture to show the type of dripless I have.
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06-21-2020 07:08 AM
The image that was posted has been enhanced and is linked here.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50028853553_e3c0ce0cde_b.jpg
The image shows several things. One is that the valley of the blue hose has deteriorated, probably with age and usage, showing cracks in the valleys. The water ingress source is not clear in the image. There is water on the hose near the cracks and water on the hull under the cracks. IMO this hose condition is unacceptable. If the winter storage replacement plan is maintained, best of wishes that this hose does not become problematic before replacement.
The image shows all hose clamps aligned. On my boat I position the screw mechanism 180° apart, facing the opposite direction.
This appears to be a Tides SureSeal w/ a round cap and dual water ports.
https://www.tidesmarine.com/shaftseals/sure_vs_strong.php
Note that those hose ports are not correctly placed, according to the manufacturer, as linked below. That seal should be rotated 180°.
https://www.tidesmarine.com/shaftseals/before_ordering.php
There are two periodic tests that should be performed on these shaft seals. One is to remove the cooling water hose from the nipples while the boat is floating to verify raw water ingress, backwards through those nipples. The other is to cap off those disconnected nipples, start the engine and verify raw water supplied to the hose. The engine should supply 1 gallon per minute at 2 psi, minimum, at idle.
On my boat, I have a spare seal in a seal carrier, ready for replacement w/o yanking the boat. When I swap seals I put the fresh seal into the carrier and put that older spare seal into service.
Whenever I remove my shafts I polish the shafts, including at the seal location. The "easy" way to polish the shaft is to put it onto stepladder steps. I then use a long strip of fine emery paper holding at the ends and long back and forth motions, along the circumference and along the length, to ensure no flat spots.
Whenever I replace my seals I reposition the seal carrier hose, so the seal rides onto a different shaft position. I mark the hull tube at each hose location so I know the positions I've already used.
The Tides seal protector must be used whenever removing and replacing the shaft, to ensure the seal and the spare seal are not damaged by the shaft keyway edges.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50029500446_79694b4984_z.jpg
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06-29-2020 06:16 AM
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06-29-2020 06:34 AM
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06-29-2020 09:14 AM
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06-29-2020 10:07 AM
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09-10-2020 02:14 PM
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09-10-2020 02:23 PM
It may be that Tides Marine can identify the correct parts based on yacht information.
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09-10-2020 02:24 PM
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09-10-2020 02:40 PM
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09-10-2020 04:31 PM
The previously linked seal protector must be used when removing / replacing a shaft past a seal that will be reused. If the protector is not used, then there is a possibility that the shaft keyway will nick the seal, preventing proper operation.
To that end, shaft removal / replacement is a two person operation. One person under the boat providing the motive force, following commands of the person under the engine, applying the protector first to the spare seal, until removed, then to the active seal. That sequence is reversed during shaft installation.
It looks like a spare seal (within a spare seal carrier) doesn't exist on this setup. Maybe it won't fit. Mine has more room between the seal and the transmission and mine has a spare seal in a carrier. Check w/ Tides Marine, because it could save having to yank the boat.
If this is the first time removing the shafts then it might be extra difficult. When I first removed my shafts I discovered each taper, on both propellers and on both couplers had a two point contact patch, diagonally opposite.
My solution to resolve this problem was to use lapping compound between the parts in 90, 320 and 500 grit. I lapped both propellers and both couplers to both shafts. Now each time I remove the parts I have a uniform contact patch on all the tapers. That first part separation was almost impossible. Now it is acceptable difficulty.
https://live.staticflickr.com/4654/40507538381_b0a121e3d3_c.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/4648/40507538291_b2ee90f6bb_c.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/4675/40465168122_4aaf8dffd9_c.jpg
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50029500446_79694b4984_z.jpg
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09-11-2020 03:38 AM
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09-11-2020 06:30 AM
A vernier caliper, as linked below, appears to fit in the gap between the seal and the transmission to measure the shaft diameter while the boat is floating. It looks like there is about an inch of shaft exposed. Is that incorrect?
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50028853553_e3c0ce0cde_b.jpg
https://www.amazon.com/Sangabery-Stainless-Millimeter-Conversion-Measurement/dp/B08C6Z29CX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=vernier+caliper&qid=1599830647&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExMFNSOVVXTFpCU0hWJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUExMDI3MzY3WEs0VkcyM0dBNExHJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTEwMDgzNTU1SU5YWEJMQVgwWFQmd2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGYmYWN0aW9uPWNsaWNrUmVkaXJlY3QmZG9Ob3RMb2dDbGljaz10cnVl
Otherwise, no problem measuring while on the hard.
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09-11-2020 09:09 AM
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09-11-2020 09:09 AM
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09-11-2020 09:14 AM
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09-11-2020 09:21 AM
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09-11-2020 10:31 AM
On a vee drive transmission, the propeller shaft passes through the transmission. The forward face of the transmission has one half of the coupler. My linked images show the other half of the coupler.
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09-23-2020 03:54 PM