Hello all... we have a 2014 330...

[Admiral_Purrl]

Hello all... we have a 2014 330 DA with a Kohler 5EKD-Low CO generator that we have had endless problems with. We have probably put enough $ into repairs that we could have purchased a new unit.

We had a tuneup done in the fall at winterization and the first month it ran beautifully. 

We started it up one evening and within 5 minutes it shut off. Pulled strainer - full of grass. (lots of grass in our area in early spring.) Cleaned it out and restarted... Steam coming out of radiator cap and overflow bottle full. (mechanics seem to like stepping on our radiator cap while entering engine compartment.) Seemed a bit loose, so replaced radiator cap and performed the Cooling System Bleed (have this issue a lot). Still overflow bottle full.

Finally gave up and put in work order and are told we need a new fuel pump and heat exchanger replacement. Looking at $2K+.

Generator has a little over 500 hours. Should heat exchanger go bad after 5 years?

Thanks for any advice/recommendations we can get!!

[wingless]

The replacement part costs on my 2000 Westerbeke BCGB generator are obscenely expensive.

The wrenches are always turned by me, so my complaint is just for parts costs (and longevity).

Always, always, always verify cooling water flow after starting the engines or generator. Audible exhaust tone is a good supplemental indicator.

WRT the heat exchanger, does it have an anode, like a replaceable zinc? If so, has that been maintained? A leaking heat exchanger might be able to be repaired by a radiator shop. If it is leaking, then repair or replacement is required.

It is totally unacceptable for the radiator cap to be used as a step. A solution is required for that problem.

My fuel pump also failed. The Westerbeke part was big bucks. I found an identical aftermarket part that looked original / identical after a coat of red paint and has worked fine for about a decade.

[Admiral_Purrl]

Thanks so much for your quick reply...

We had fine water flow. We look for that first thing. If not water flow we shut down immediately. Exhaust flow sound hums...

Yes, heat exchanger has anode, says replace after 500 hrs. we are about there.

The tech basically said these parts need replacing from the diagnostic ($200) codes he received.

The fuel pump is only a few hundred. The heat exchanger they are quoting $5-$600 but the labor is 5-6 hours???

Unfortunately we are not mechanical in any way and have to rely on the mechanics for service and repairs. (Big ones anyway.)

[wingless]

It would not be possible for someone to pay be enough to work on someone else's generator on my model boat, due to the contortions required for access, including partial engine exhaust disassembly.

The generator on your boat could not be in a better location, with complete access.

My seat of the pants is that labor is always at least matching parts, go figure...

The only "hard" thing on the heat exchanger replacement is properly controlling the antifreeze, so the bilge pump doesn't send it into the water.

Waaay back when I was young and paid for others to service my toys I concluded they weren't any smarter than me, all they had was tools and experience, so I got tools and I read books (before Interlink). Now I do everything myself.

Good luck w/ your repair.

[Admiral_Purrl]

Thanks again! Our biggest issue is Time... my husband works 60+ hours a week and just doesn't have the time. Agreed the Gen is in a good location. We have done some minor items (even replaced impeller last year - a 2+ hour job due to it's location. Very difficult to fit in the space and wiggle the rubber just right...

BY THE WAY... I did get the stereo fixed. Seemed that the DVD player is somehow connected to the Stereo so when we removed the DVD player the Stereo Unit easily pulled out. See images of the mess we found. The speakers in question were plugged in but must have been loose. We labeled it for future reference and put some tape on the connector to hopefully keep this from happening in the future.

[Escape_Cay]

I'm with you but what can we do with all the manufacturers exiting making generators and spare parts

[Vinster]

Hmmm. Sounds to me like something may be clogged if that much sea grass got into the strainer or a salt buildup. From the strainer, seawater goes to the water pump. Have you checked that out? When gen is running, is any water being discharged? If not, 1st check the impeller. If that's good, behind the impeller is a yellow plastic spline gear. Is that ok? If that is ok, the fuel cooler, which allows seawater to pass thru, is to cool the fuel, it may be partially clogged, or may have buildup of salt. Remove hoses and check water flow. Use other hoses to blow air. Not clogged? Check reed valve, a U shaped black plastic device at exit of generator, just before seawater exits to hull fitting. A flush with barnacle buster may be needed from impeller pump discharge side to reed valve. I do this 1x year and have no issues. I flush my Koehler after each use.

[Vinster]

One more thing. The heat exchanger many need a clean. I took mine off and soaked in barnacle buster overnight. I put in a new zinc and it's worked great for two years now. You don't have to get that drastic if you do the barnacle buster flush. It will clean the entire seawater system of your generator.

[Big_mike1]

Barnacle buster is great run it into system through water intake and let it sit overnight it works great

[Escape_Cay]

Sounds very familiar. The grass in the water is something to watch for and shut the gen down quick. I spent $6k rebuilding mine. Ran it ONCE for about 3 hours the grass came through near Crab Island (Destin) and bam it's down again. In theory the temp sensor should shut the genie down before something bad happens. However the rebuild guy didn't check that sensor. Going back to him this week. If I won the lotery ...

[cbruck]

I just had my 7.3 overheat and shut down. I knew the pump was good so I removed the heat exchanger which was not easy as mine was a very tight fit. I flushed the heat exchanger but noticed broken anodes inside, probably 4-5. I finally got those out and replaced the thermostat, which I thought was the problem. Didn't solve the issue so I pulled the raw water hose going to the heat exchanger and no water. Pulled the raw water pump apart and noticed the shaft was spinning freely. There is a plastic coupler between the engine and the pump. Mine wasn't properly adjusted (probably from the factory) and it was just barely engaging. Over time is wore the plastic gears and wasn't engaging. I adjusted the shaft gear on the pump so it engages further into the coupler. Sorry for the long dissertation but I thought someone might find this helpful. One more tip is that in order to get my heat exchanger off, I had to remove two small screws at the top of the control box so I could then just barely rotate the heat exchanger up and out. Mine was so tight, that was the only way to get it out without removing the entire control box.

[GEORGE]

fire your mechanic!