I have a new 280 SLX. The boat...

[alan_medearis]

I have a new 280 SLX.  The boat has two batteries (House and Starting) and a dash-mounted switch to disconnect the House battery.   The battery switch is a SafetyHub 100 by Blue sea Systems.

Unfortunately, if the single House battery is weak or discharged, it is impossible to operate the Starting battery (unless you manually remove the batteries and interchange the two). 

My prior Sea Rays had the ability to revert to the 'backup' battery (using the A/B switch).  I am uncomfortable not having a backup battery for starting (too many battery issues over the years).

The factory assures me that no other owners are concerned about this, and this is intentional design.

I am reluctant to modify the electrical on a new boat, but this seems like important redundancy.  Any thoughts on how to remediate?

[wingless]

Here is the Owner's Manual for your boat.

https://bbg1.my.salesforce.com/sfc/p/#E0000000Z21E/a/44000000PjiU/miKYRkmwENcdYzfhtXur5XleTVGbhSb8bf.ewPXY8Xk

The configuration you've described didn't sound correct, until I examined the schematic to see it for myself.

Yes, there should be a backup so the boat may be started, even if the engine battery doesn't have enough juice.

IMO, it makes sense to modify the wiring, remaining in-compliance w/ ABYC, but also adding redundancy.

This could be as simple as adding a manual high-current-capacity switch that shunts the batteries together only when required, to a more sophisticated A/B swap switch, to an automatic electronic device.

The factory built my 2000 380DA w/ a manually activated contactor and a push-to-hold dash switch that shunts port and starboard battery banks together when required.

[alan_medearis]

Thanks. I agree with your thoughts.

I have had several conversations with the factory, and they see no need for any redundancy.

[wingless]

It is your boat now.

My boat has been updated by me for improved functionality and improved utility for the the way I use the boat.

When I modify the boat, w/ additions or changes, I always either create new schematic pages, or modify existing pages, so that complete up-to-date documentation exists for the boat.

All my OEM wiring was already labeled at both ends. All the new wiring I add also has labels applied by me at both ends. The factory used split loom over the wiring and harness to hull anchors, so do I.

On my boat it is very difficult to discern OEM wiring from my updates.

[HdG3xB]

It's easy to add an emergency parallel switch. Having a separate house and start bank has many advantages, but having a way to connect them in an emergency is important. Just add a simple on off switch between the two banks and leave it in the off position unless you need the extra juice from the house bank to start the engine.

[SeaMax]

If you don’t want to modify the wiring, just stow a set of jumper cables on the boat so you’ll have back up in the unlikely event you need them.

[alan_medearis]

Thanks. This is exactly the solution that I am using -- not very high tech, but the two batteries are easily accessible and are side-by-side.

I am still miffed about the factory's comments that 'no other owners are concerned'....

[SeaMax]

I can’t imagine that a simple cross over switch installed at the time of the boat being manufactured would increase the cost much. I suspect the comment of “no concerns” is simply an attempt to justify a bad design. Anyone ever using batteries (which would include everyone) has had a dead battery in their lifetime. Dead battery on your iPhone is bad, dead battery on your boat can be serious.

[wingless]

Careful / proper jumper cable usage is fine.

Doing that more than once will be the impetus for an integrated solution.

[stevens_dick]

I bought a new SeaRay 2018 230 SLX-W (surf boat) about 5 months ago. I have had multiple warranty electronic issues since.
The manual has from day one been useless.
This from a boat that cost more than twice as much as my first home.
****Last weekend none of the dashboard systems (dynamic display, bilge pump, etc) or other accessory systems worked.
Oddly, the engines still would turn over and start.
I have no idea if the steering system worked.
Another issue was the electrical engine hatch cover would not work so I had no access to the batteries.
The fuse boxes were also very inaccessible. We never could determine which fuse controlled these electrical items.
I was told by my dealership’s service writer that most likely only a technician could manually open up the engine hatch cover (“It would probably be too complicated for me”). The service writer also recommended that I let a technician deal with any fuse issue.
After quite a few long cell calls to the service writer in 98 degree heat (Texas), we gave up using the boat that day. He was also talking to some of the dealerships technicians.
The week before this issue, the dealer’s technician on the lake had to replace a relay switch for one of the joy stick thrusters. It took two weeks to get that part. I suspect that may have caused the subsequent electrical problems.
FYI, the service writer extended great effort to try to solve these. I would hire him as an employee.
We still have not been able to use the boat. In fact, it has been out of commission for weeks on different occasions since I purchased.
****I honestly think I may have bought a “lemon”. I now wonder why if I should have bought the expensive extended warranty?
****At any point, does anyone know if this model also has the same battery charging issue noted above for the SLX 280? Do I need a to add some type of “emergency backup parallel switch between the House and Starting batteries” considering my other electrical issues?
****Jumping cables would be useless if I am unable to lift the engine hatch cover.
****Has anyone else had excessive service issues with a 230 SLX-W?
****After the first few service issues, I was told that the boat had had few service issues by others.

[wingless]

It is not unusual for problems to exist w/ a new boat.

A failed part(s) or a bad connection can result in usual problems.

Any decent technician can identify, then resolve the problems that have been described.

It doesn't sound at all like a lemon to me...

Every Sea Ray boat I've seen has a method for accessing the batteries when the hatch lift does not work as intended. It is always much less convenient, but possible.

Learn your boat. Carry tools, spare parts and subscribe to a towing service.

My preference is to fix issues (issues will happen, even on a well-maintained boat) but have the towing service in the back pocket, if ever required, to prevent a several thousand dollar tow back home.

It may be counter-intuitive, but a slightly used boat may have fewer problems, because the first owner worked those issues w/ the selling dealership. (Sound familiar?)

[stevens_dick]

Thanks for the reply. I have always owned multiple brands of boats (Chaparral, Nautique, Yamaha) that I bought several years used. I never had any service issues like this new SeaRay. So you maybe correct in that these issues might be related to the boat being new. That said, I don’t understand why the dealer has told me they have never had these types of issues with this model.