OK. I have a 2002 340 Sundancer....

[Takin_Bets]

OK. I have a 2002 340 Sundancer. When in neutral the starboard transmission will sometimes want to pull the boat forward as if the clutches are making contact. I have read in the manual that there is an adjustment in under the levers at the console, and one at the V-Drive transmission. I am extremely handy but admit I am not a mechanic. Is it possible to have this corrected by a Mercruiser mechanic or is this a no repair problem? Thanks

[wingless]

The helm shift levers are connected by cables to the transmission gearshift lever.

The same engine and transmission are used on port and starboard, the cables are routed to the gearshift lever from opposite directions to cause opposing rotation from identical helm shift lever movement.

That transmission gearshift lever has a detent in the central neutral position.

Start by removing the cable from the lever to determine if the helm neutral position is exactly aligned with the transmission neutral position. If not adjust so they match.

[Takin_Bets]

Thanks wingless!!

[d9ever]

I had a shift problem but adjusted the shift lever at the transmission so the ball detent was aligned properly. It takes a little time to shift then wiggle the lever to make sure the adjustment is correct

[Takin_Bets]

Thanks d9ever.

[Seatorn]

Hi, I have 2008 searay 38 sundancer. It has the 8.1 s Ho horizon mercruiser engines dts (digital transmission system). Last year on my first outing after purchase the port transmission unexpetedly slipped into neutral. This happened within 200’ ft. ot leaving the dock. Since than it has happened 5 or 6 more times and always the port side and when just leaving the dock. To continue I have go down and turn the ignition off and back on again and restart the engine. A tech. Has tried to resolve this but no luck so far. Input would be very much appreciated.

[wingless]

Seatorn,

Welcome to the forum.

Why not create a new topic in the stream for this problem, for the DTS shifting system, totally different than the issues w/ this manual control topic?

The short answer for the DTS is this is a very complex system, with a VERY detailed and precise setup, as defined in their documentation, linked here.

https://samerwebapp01apncus01.azureedge.net/mmgw-env-b/filer_public/96/0d/960d3fd5-13fd-4140-8ccf-7fa389f2e5e0/dts_panel_remote_control_installation_instructions.pdf

If this were my boat with this problem, then I would start on page 1 and go through each and every step to hopefully resolve the problem.

LOTS of good luck wishes to you!!! You will need it.

[wingless]

Note that the DTS instructions state this warning in BOLD on page 1.

IMPORTANT: Electronic Calibration Required Before Use – After Installation of this product, the DTS system will require electronic calibration. This calibration must not be attempted by anyone other than a person who has been specifically trained in Mercury Marine’s Digital throttle and shift (DTS) systems. Improper electronic calibration of the digital throttle and shift (DTS) system will make this product and/or the DTS system inoperable or unsafe for use.

The fact that a Mercruiser trained technician cannot resolve the problem leads me to conclude that the published plan is not working as designed.

Again, I would do it myself, but that is me.

Please be safe and work within your skill set.

[Takin_Bets]

Ok - I was able to line up the detents on the starboard transmission and the control. That worked great for about a month. Then I needed to turn the boat and when I put the starboard in forward and the port in reverse, the starboard transmission started to "squeal". Did this for the next 3-4 times I put her in forward then it stopped making the sound. Both transmissions work great but the original problem of the starboard transmission moving the boat forward in neutral is back. I appreciate any ideas - Thanks -

[wingless]

Thanks for the update.

Yes the controls must be aligned properly for normal transmission operation.

The fact that the adjustment was incorrect is surprising to me. Knocking on wood, the adjustment on my transmission cables has never needed attention in 22 years, so maybe something is wrong that caused the adjustment to drift.

Has the adjustment been verified now that the resolved problem resurfaced?

[Takin_Bets]

Thanks for your time wingless. The first adjustment - I set the cables only one turn counter clockwise, so when reassembled it would move the transmission towards the reverse. Obviously not a lot , these are pretty fine threads. I was surprised it made such a difference. It then worked great till the noise situation. This time when adjusting, the cable needed turned clockwise, which would be towards forward when reassembled. It was off several turns, which I though was odd since that would make the situation worse. You may be correct in the statement that something may be causing it to drift.

[wingless]

That update indicates to me that there is a different problem that must be fixed.

Again disconnect the cable at the transmission. Again adjust it to be dead on.

Wiggle the transmission lever to determine if the detent position is stable. Check the adjustment using the cable.

Disconnect the cable. Manually cycle the transmission lever several times. Check the adjustment using the cable.

Now repeat all that from the shift lever end to see if those are remaining constant after wiggling and after cycling.

[Catfive]

Why cant we find a complete repair manual for Sea Ray. If you can find one you are a step ahead. Send me where I can get one. 1998 250 sundancer. Thx

[Takin_Bets]

Hey Wingless, thanks for the suggestions. I tried to get my 6ft 2in frame to where I could reach the starboard transmission but no luck, so I called my marina and they sent 2 Mercruiser mechanics over to do the adjusting. They aligned it but still could not get it to stop and felt the clutches sometimes make contact and suggested I change the transmission fluid and try that. the transmissions have had the fluid changed yearly with Red Line D4 ATF Full Synthetic . do you know of an additive that is also a cleaner that I might try? Thanks again for your time!

[wingless]

The transmission Factory Service Manual is also pointing at the shift linkage adjustment, for the delayed shift time symptom.

For slipping it identifies: wrong fluid, water in fluid; low hydraulic pressure, clutch worn and piston rings worn.

It is "easy" to measure the hydraulic pressure.

If the fluid is clean, w/o water, then I would not use an additive. Ensure the correct fluid is used. I didn't see the Red Line in the list of ~100 fluids in the document I examined. It may be fine, but I can't tell.

My very strong suspicion is the adjustment. If the transmission isn't failed, then the lever moving the spool valve will direct strong hydraulic pressure to compress the clutch discs.

The access should be "easy" because that is on the top forward part of the transmission.

If this were mine I would reproduce the problem while securely tied at the dock at idle. Then I would disconnect the shift cable from the lever and manually shift while in the engine room to see if the problem remains. That should be step 2, after proper verification of fluid level / condition.

[wingless]

Here are some images, of the high pressure pump and of the pump housing removed on my boat.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50214440667_cc4ce860fa_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50214440642_77991eb7e9_c.jpg

[Takin_Bets]

Thanks for the info. I will try the adjustment again and see. Is there a way to see the list of approved fluids? Thanks again

[wingless]

This is a more current listing than the one I have. The Lubricant Class 04D ATF appears to be the appropriate one for our 63IV transmission.

https://aftermarket.zf.com/remotemedia/lol-lubricants/lol-en/lol-te-ml-04-en.pdf

[wingless]

Here is the transmission.

https://www.marinepartsexpress.com/prodbullzf07/DS-ZF_63_IV.pdf

[wingless]

A quick check of the cross references on the Red Line D4 ATF did not match on the ZF 63 IV fluid list, so replacement is probably warranted. Note that the drain refill will dilute that fluid because everything won't drain, so multiple changes are probably required.

https://www.redlineoil.com/Content/files/tech/D4_ATF_PROD_INFO(1).pdf

[Takin_Bets]

Interesting. I assume since synthetic has been used I should stick with synthetic? Thanks for all the info

[wingless]

My preference is synthetic.

My guess is the fluid is probably okay. My understanding is there are two basic ATF types, Dexron and ATF+4.

That Red Line lists Dexron compatible. The ZF 63 IV lists Dexron fluids.

My suggestion is to not start w/ swapping the fluid and instead checking the adjustment / operation w/ the cable disconnected, as previously described.