Fellow cruisers my starboard rudder...

[rsg]

Fellow cruisers my starboard rudder port on my 98 330DA has been slowly leaking for the last 2 seasons so I am determined to fix come spring. I understand what is needed to repack the rope caulking with 2 lines whereby each unions are on opposite sides however looking for advice on how the rudder ports come apart?  Also any special tools needed other than pipe wrenches? Not alot of room down there to swing a pipe wrench which needs to open up at least 2 inches to loosen locking nuts.  Also how tight does the nut need to be so that the rudder still turns once re packed? Any advise from those who have done this repair  is appreciated  thanks

[wingless]

Welcome to the forum.

It is possible that new packing is not required, possibly only requiring an adjustment.

It is technically possible to effect the replacement w/o disassembly.

When I did mine, the boat was on-the-hard and I did a complete disassembly.

For mine, I purchased a complete assembly, w/ four layers of packing, staggered joints, joints cut at 45°, not butt edges, pre-shaped and all four layers fused as a shaped assembly, probably using wax.

That assembly is not required. It is possible to purchase an appropriate length of packing and do all that manually.

So, for mine, an automotive floor jack under the rudder pushing it up into the boat. Disconnect the steering ram and the side to side steering bar. Remove the steering arm. Remove the upper rudder support bar. Remove the packing nut. I also removed the jam nut.

Remove the old packing from the packing nut.

On mine, I used marine grease on the rudder block exterior threads. This makes adjustment sooo much easier. I also run the jam nut up and down, over and over again, until it moves freely.

The standard wide jaw adjustable packing nut wrench sold at West Marine has worked fine for me the half dozen times I've used this tool. IMO it has flimsy construction, but it is good enough. Two wrenches would be better, but I've made do with one.

When I did mine I also removed and replaced the rudder, coating the shaft with marine grease. This step is not required, but it is part of my over-the-top maintenance.

Loosely thread on the jam nut, circular part up and loosely thread on the packing nut.

Replace the upper rudder support bar.

Loosely attach the steering arm, w/ all washers in the same order and the key replaced.

Very important step, pump the floor jack so the rudder is pushed into the hull as tightly as possible.

Push the steering arm down as far as possible and tighten.

Replace cotter pin.

Repeat on opposite side.

Reassemble steering, replacing all locking parts.


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[rsg]

Wingless you are always so helpfull thanks for the feedback. I'm on the replacement track to hopefully fix it for good. Counting the days until we are back on the water.

[wingless]

You're welcome.

When I do mine I perform a final adjustment once the boat is floating, to a little tighter than where the packing stops leaking.

Mine is also periodically inspected w/ possible adjustment, if required. It remains good once set.

[rsg]

Understood from what I know the rope packing can swell up and expand as it absorbs h2o so monitoring for adjustment is critical

Thx. rsg

[kak]

Suggest using teflon rope packing for ease of steering and longevity