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I have a 2000, 340  Sundancer that...

twin_engine
Guest Contributor

I have a 2000, 340  Sundancer that has two small cabinets/lockers on the port side, aft deck. I need to remove the interior lining panels to gain access to the hull behind each. They are tightly fitted in the enclosure, and I cannot locate any screws that may be holding them in place. It seems that they are snapped in, but before I start to pry them out, I am seeking help as to how they are held in place. Thanks

16 REPLIES 16

wingless
Rising Contributor
Why not post an image(s) showing the configuration?

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
Here are a few photos of each cabinet. I think, the rear cabinet will allow me to reach the vent hoses to attach to the vent. These are the photos that show the white wood. The other cabinet, with the carpeting appears to be removable. There were two clips on it on the floor lying loose. Perhaps someone else removed those panels. Maybe, I may be able to reach inside to the rear of the scallop to reach the hoses. The wood lined cabinet seems the most likely to reach the hoses etc. The wood sided cabinet, may be that way to prevent fumes from entering in the aft deck area. I tried attaching the photos, but no luck. I'll try again later. Thanks

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
 

wingless
Rising Contributor
There was one image, of a smooth white cabinet.

My speculation is that the screws used for assembling that cabinet exist on the back side, at the perimeter.

Remember the factory needed to assemble the boat, so there is some way for placing that cabinet into a boat w/ a hull, top side and cockpit.

Why not post an image further away?

This form permits posting one image per reply, or I use Flickr to host images, so I can drop as many image URL links per reply as desired.

The existing image shows one large Philips head screw on the floor.

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
downsized photo, this is the front cabinet

wingless
Rising Contributor
That image has a pair of screws retaining a back side aluminum angle iron.

My speculation is that more similar attachment points exist around the perimeter. Is that correct? If so, what happens when those screws are removed? Is the panel detached?

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
There are a few more of those brackets. The screws are partially under the carpeting in each location. I suspicion, that these hold the panels in place. I do not try to remove them, since this opening would access the openings that do not have hoses attached. Upon looking closely at the area, I am sure I cannot reach the back vents. Also, a boarding step is recessed into the side fiberglass wall, that will block the way. I took several photos, and had to downsize this one to even send it. I will try Flickr or another, so meaningful size photos may be posted. As for the white cabinet, I missed the screw you mentioned, so will look again. There are several screws around the cabinet door frame, so it may come out as a unit . Never considered that it was added as most likely one piece. That's like not seeing the forest for the trees. I'll post again once I take off the frame and see what is there to be seen. Thanks, as always .Gary

wingless
Rising Contributor
This latest image showing the closed hatch door is likely secured w/ small perimeter flat head screws.

Note that while the accessible cabinet panel doesn't require removal, it might need to come out if an obstructing part must move through the opening created by removing the part.

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
Good News! I have accessed the hoses. through the aft cabinet. To do so: first remove the door, there are screws in the hinge attached to the frame. To remove the frame, which is also attached to the cabinet, you remove the screws around the frame, you have to remove the black rubber gasket, that is inserted in the frame. It is already split, so carefully remove it from the track. You have to do this, to gain access to remove some screws that extend in the cabinet. This is how the cabinet is support. Once those screws are removed the cabinet will drop down somewhat, resting on some of the boats construction. It will move up and down, however it is too tall to pull out standing up. I rotated it counterclockwise and rested it on its side. now the hoses are completely visible and accessible. After I install the vents, I will endeavor to get a hose over each. Unfortunately, someone else was in there before and has the ends crunched over--also several screws were not installed during that project. The are also readily available at the hardware store (stainless steel). My vessel has a screw with a countersink washer that holds the hose on the neck of the vent. Wingless, thanks for the help and pointing out the cabinet had to installed when the boat was built and not fit in piece meal, afterwards. I attach a photo of the opening. I will upload photo tomorrow.

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
 

wingless
Rising Contributor
Great news!

Thanks very much for the detailed update and image. It is very helpful.

It should be possible to carefully massage the hose back into shape, because of the internal spiral wire reinforcement.

As was mentioned, when I did my hoses it was a two person project, with someone next to the hull exterior manipulating parts while my contorted body worked within the engine room. Yours appears to have better access, from the cockpit.

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
I'll use the procedure that worked for you, and fortunately there is a much more accessible area for connecting the hoses. With one person it is still awkward to manipulate the vent up through the outside and hold it while trying to insert it into the hose. Mounting the vent first, then only the hose can manipulate and twist. One way or another, it will be done. Working on vessels take a lot of perseverance. Thanks

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
Wingless: I cannot locate your reply posting as to how much you cut off the vent tube. Please let me know the amount. Thanks

wingless
Rising Contributor
When I changed from the two OEM bilge blower exhaust to also add my custom thermostatically controlled heat exhaust, I added two additional vent flanges, one per side.

The standard parts are too long, so I needed to cut off about 1" per side, to match the factory parts that were also modified, by Sea Ray, to work in the application.

The standard and modified parts are shown in one image. The best I can provide is the eyeball measurement from the images.

One side, with the factory vent flange and the other side w/ the additional flange is shown in the other image.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50235472627_888cb87acc_c.jpg

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/50235258716_991bde4276_c.jpg

wingless
Rising Contributor
FWIW, the addition of those extra exhaust hoses / flanges also required modification of the hull sides, to increase the cutout size at those locations to match the opening size at the existing OEM vent locations.

The existing OEM cutout locations are the maximum size that is covered by the curved oval panel. The new hull cutouts are also the maximum size that is also covered by that curved oval panel.

twin_engine
Guest Contributor
Thanks, the photos are a great help. I vents I received are close in height to your original and modified. They are not as long as the the one you had to shorten.