Stumped have a 2000 380 Sundancer...
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06-30-2021 04:59 PM
Stumped
have a 2000 380 Sundancer and can’t find the amplifier. Per the spec it should be behind the seat that houses the salon AC. Perhaps this one didn’t come with but hard to believe that head unit runs 8 speakers and a sub.
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07-01-2021 01:03 PM
What is in that volume?
My 2000 380DA was built by Sea Ray to include the stereo amplifier and the A/C trigger electrical wiring box. I updated mine to add a second amplifier (at that location), plus add the enable switches below the entry light switches, to aid for quick toggling of zones for sound.
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07-01-2021 01:31 PM
I would love to add zone volume control but not sure how to fish the wire without removing half the ceiling panels etc.
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07-01-2021 08:22 PM
The 2000 380DA is a well-designed boat, w/ "easy" ways to properly implement modifications, like adding zone switches. Note that two amplifiers are required for zone switches, not just the single amp installed by the factory on the 2000 380DA.
For adding the salon step zone switches, like the factory installed on later model years. just route the wiring using existing passages, behind then under the 'fridge, under the steps, across the floor storage, up under the salon bench storage cushion, then into the amplifier compartment.
The worst part is purchasing the matching "pricey" Vimar Idea switches and face plate. When I did mine the OEM Sea Ray "COCKPIT STEREO" and "CABIN STEREO" decals were available to purchase.
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07-02-2021 04:56 AM
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07-02-2021 05:07 AM
The 2000 380DA uses the stereo front/rear fader on the single amp. Before I upgraded my system I rewired the speakers so everything below was on the front and the cockpit was on the rear.
Yes, the 'fridge must be removed to install the zone controls.
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07-02-2021 05:10 AM
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07-02-2021 05:17 AM
i better stick with replacing the AC in the salon first ha.
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07-02-2021 05:20 AM
The salon A/C issue has already been confirmed to not just being a failed keypad? FWIW, each of my keypads has failed once over the decades, requiring replacement.
Same also w/ the trigger modules controlling the A/C raw water pump.
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07-02-2021 05:24 AM
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07-02-2021 05:33 AM
Is there good water flow shooting out the side of the hull from this A/C unit when it is commanded to run?
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07-02-2021 05:36 AM
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07-02-2021 05:38 AM
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07-02-2021 05:38 AM
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07-02-2021 04:15 PM
Oddly I just heard the unit cycle back on but same results.
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07-02-2021 04:20 PM
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07-02-2021 05:31 PM
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07-02-2021 07:56 PM
Sorry my reading comprehension is insufficient.
Please answer as many questions as possible.
1) Is the water shooting out the hull, or does it also dribble down the side, staining the hull?
2) Has the air intake grill been removed and cleaned, or just inspected?
3) Has the air intake filter been removed and cleaned , or just inspected?
4) Has the evaporator been cleaned, such as w/ an aerosol coil cleaner?
5) When the operating white heat exchanger coils are hand touched are they warm?
FYI, the raw water A/C circuit on the 380DA is "easy" to clean. Turn off both A/C units. Shut off the seacock. I use my Salt Away mixer w/ a small brass fixed blaster hose nozzle and car wash soap. Jam the nozzle into one hull output to blast soapy water through the raw water circuit. Repeat on the other output. Go back and forth until the water comes out clean. I do this each time the water starts to dribble. This fixes the dribble for a long time, restoring a nice stream away from the hull. Open the seacock when done.
FWIW, both my A/C units are set to circulate air 24/7/365, so I must clean the permanent aluminum mesh air filters every 6-12 months. Here are some before / after images.
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07-02-2021 07:58 PM
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07-02-2021 08:05 PM
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07-02-2021 09:29 PM
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07-03-2021 10:54 PM
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07-03-2021 11:16 PM
So the cleaning method I described, w/ the A/C seacock closed and soapy garden hose water forced into one hull mushroom barb then the other cleans the entire raw water circuit to the tee fitting on the raw water pump.
The centrifugal A/C raw water pump does not self prime. A centrifugal pump has less head than other pumps.
On the 380DA the A/C pump is very easy to prime. The strainer and pump are both lower than the waterline. With the seacock open, loosen the cover on the strainer until air is displaced and water starts dribbling out. Close the cover.
This priming method permits normal pump operation 100% of the time on my 380DA.
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07-04-2021 07:28 AM
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07-04-2021 04:39 PM
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07-04-2021 04:46 PM
Run it backwards as described to verify no clog.
Disconnect the pump output hose to verify the pump works.
It sounds like either the pump has no power (separate pump breaker on?) or the pump is bad.
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07-05-2021 05:22 PM
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07-18-2021 05:50 AM
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07-18-2021 06:07 AM
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07-18-2021 06:44 AM
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08-08-2021 07:14 AM