Stumped have a 2000 380 Sundancer...

[Wailea]

Stumped 

have a 2000 380 Sundancer and can’t find the amplifier. Per the spec  it should be behind the seat that houses the salon AC. Perhaps this one didn’t come with but hard to believe that head unit runs 8 speakers and a sub. 

[wingless]

Has the salon cushion seat back been unscrewed at the bottom and lifted off for removal to expose the amplifier underneath the salon circuit panel?

What is in that volume?

My 2000 380DA was built by Sea Ray to include the stereo amplifier and the A/C trigger electrical wiring box. I updated mine to add a second amplifier (at that location), plus add the enable switches below the entry light switches, to aid for quick toggling of zones for sound.

[Wailea]

Thanks for the response. I have not removed the back rest, from removing the seat cushion I thought I could contort myself (not a bendy as i once was) and look up into that void with a flash light and there was nothing there. Is the only way to see it removing the back cushion?
I would love to add zone volume control but not sure how to fish the wire without removing half the ceiling panels etc.

[wingless]

Yes, remove the cushion, it is easy, unscrew the bottom and lift to disengage the vertical top retention pegs.

The 2000 380DA is a well-designed boat, w/ "easy" ways to properly implement modifications, like adding zone switches. Note that two amplifiers are required for zone switches, not just the single amp installed by the factory on the 2000 380DA.

For adding the salon step zone switches, like the factory installed on later model years. just route the wiring using existing passages, behind then under the 'fridge, under the steps, across the floor storage, up under the salon bench storage cushion, then into the amplifier compartment.

The worst part is purchasing the matching "pricey" Vimar Idea switches and face plate. When I did mine the OEM Sea Ray "COCKPIT STEREO" and "CABIN STEREO" decals were available to purchase.

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[Wailea]

Thank you for all of that info. do you have to remove the fridge at all? that zone system you have doesn't control volume correct just on or off? wonder it if is as "easy" to add a zone for the forward cabin? am i correct in assuming one amp runs each zone?

[wingless]

Yes, the factory built the 2000 380DA w/ one amp for the entire boat and two amps are required for zone controls, like the factory installed on later year 380DA models.

The 2000 380DA uses the stereo front/rear fader on the single amp. Before I upgraded my system I rewired the speakers so everything below was on the front and the cockpit was on the rear.

Yes, the 'fridge must be removed to install the zone controls.

[wingless]

Yes, the zone controls is on/off, not volume, by toggling the amplifier enable input control.

[Wailea]

Thanks again for al the info. Enjoy the 4th
i better stick with replacing the AC in the salon first ha.

[wingless]

YW

The salon A/C issue has already been confirmed to not just being a failed keypad? FWIW, each of my keypads has failed once over the decades, requiring replacement.

Same also w/ the trigger modules controlling the A/C raw water pump.

[Wailea]

the error I have on the key pad of PS/LO i believed to come back as low refrigerant. the last owner had a repair tech try to fix and was told it worked for just a short time after.

[wingless]

Has the cabin air filter been removed and maintained as clean? That permanent filter is easy to clean using a garden hose. The one in the master stateroom is even easier to remove and clean.

Is there good water flow shooting out the side of the hull from this A/C unit when it is commanded to run?

[Wailea]

I will confirm the cleanliness of the filter but when i purchased the boat last August and was looking and learning to my recollection it was clean (hasn't been used since). Yes when i initially turn it on there is water flow before it errors out and shuts off.

[wingless]

Great, look and confirm, but then also garden hose clean while it is removed for inspection before replacement.

[Wailea]

10/4 will report back

[Wailea]

So good water flow filter was good and I left it off during testing. A little build up on the fins but not much. Plenty of air drawing in. Been running for 5 min has not errored out but the air is def. not cold.
Oddly I just heard the unit cycle back on but same results.

[Wailea]

After about 10 min errored out

[Wailea]

After about 10 min errored out

[wingless]

"So good water flow filter was good and I left it off during testing. A little build up on the fins but not much. Plenty of air drawing in."

Sorry my reading comprehension is insufficient.

Please answer as many questions as possible.

1) Is the water shooting out the hull, or does it also dribble down the side, staining the hull?

2) Has the air intake grill been removed and cleaned, or just inspected?

3) Has the air intake filter been removed and cleaned , or just inspected?

4) Has the evaporator been cleaned, such as w/ an aerosol coil cleaner?

5) When the operating white heat exchanger coils are hand touched are they warm?

FYI, the raw water A/C circuit on the 380DA is "easy" to clean. Turn off both A/C units. Shut off the seacock. I use my Salt Away mixer w/ a small brass fixed blaster hose nozzle and car wash soap. Jam the nozzle into one hull output to blast soapy water through the raw water circuit. Repeat on the other output. Go back and forth until the water comes out clean. I do this each time the water starts to dribble. This fixes the dribble for a long time, restoring a nice stream away from the hull. Open the seacock when done.

FWIW, both my A/C units are set to circulate air 24/7/365, so I must clean the permanent aluminum mesh air filters every 6-12 months. Here are some before / after images.


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[wingless]

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[wingless]

"So good water flow filter was good and I left it off during testing." Note that the A/C MUST have water flow for the A/C to operate properly, including during testing.

[Wailea]

I will have to conform a couple of these tomorrow... however the water flow was very strong equal to the forward system. The filter was clean and I completely removed it while I was running it just to make sure there was no restriction. I have not aerosol cleaned. We are fresh water only is the salt mix a general cleaner or just for salt water application? I will confirm but It was not warm to the touch at any point.

[Fast_Eddie1]

Wingless as I understand what you are saying, you shoot the car wash. Solution from the ac side of the pump through the ac and out the Hull correct? We just put a new pump on and we can't seem to get the ac unit itself to prime.

[wingless]

@Ed Ventura the 380DA has two A/C units sharing a single raw water pump.

So the cleaning method I described, w/ the A/C seacock closed and soapy garden hose water forced into one hull mushroom barb then the other cleans the entire raw water circuit to the tee fitting on the raw water pump.

The centrifugal A/C raw water pump does not self prime. A centrifugal pump has less head than other pumps.

On the 380DA the A/C pump is very easy to prime. The strainer and pump are both lower than the waterline. With the seacock open, loosen the cover on the strainer until air is displaced and water starts dribbling out. Close the cover.

This priming method permits normal pump operation 100% of the time on my 380DA.

[Fast_Eddie1]

Oh mine is a 2003 340 SDA with one ac, my pump is primed but I can't seem to get the water to move through the ac and out

[wingless]

@Eddie Keesee Why not shut off the A/C and use a small brass fixed blaster hose nozzle on a garden hose to reverse blast high pressure water backwards from the hull mushroom barb through the evaporator, pump, strainer and sea cock?

[wingless]

It is probably NOT a priming issue. The factory MUST have already installed the raw water pump below the waterline because the centrifugal pump will not suck up to self prime.

Run it backwards as described to verify no clog.

Disconnect the pump output hose to verify the pump works.

It sounds like either the pump has no power (separate pump breaker on?) or the pump is bad.

[wingless]

Also verify good water ingress w/ system shut off and strainer lid removed.

[Bradeyedoc]

I have same issue with my 2019 Sundancer 329 OB. a/c. Keep it on lift and a/c won’t work until I prime pump by filling discharge line with water. Will try taking cap off of strainer to fill as that is easier. I have been filling discharge line with water to prime

[wingless]

@Brad Nadelstein has shutting the seacock closed prior to lifting, then opening the seacock after floating been tried to retain the A/C prime through boat lift cycles?

[Bradeyedoc]

Hey Wingless. Yes, that works too, but I’m always worried I will forget to open the seacock after I lower the boat on the lift and burn out the impeller!:). Sometimes I don’t lower the boat for extended periods and I might forget to open it. Btw, thank you, Wingless for always offering g help on this forum. Appreciate your time

[garybly]

On my 320 it is under the salon seat in the right side cabinet by the floor