Bilge Float Switch Trips Breaker, Loose Exhaust Manifold Hose Clamps

[The_Bear]

I have a 2014 Sundancer 260. Took a cruise the other day and when I got the boat back on the lift and went to switch the battery off I noticed that the Bilge Pump breaker had tripped. I switched it back on, the bilge pump ran for two seconds and then it tripped again. When I flipped the bilge pump switch at the helm, the pump came on and pumped it out fine. So why would the bilge pump trip the breaker when it comes on via the float switch but not when I turn it on from the helm? Should I replace the float switch (it's a Rule-A-Matic PLUS)? Or should I be looking for a different problem? 

Regarding why there was water in the bilge to begin with: the hose clamps on the exhaust manifold were loose, all 16 of them! I tightened them up and the problem was solved. I understand this is a good thing to check at the start of each boating season, I know I will next year. 

[wingless]

Welcome to the forum.

The bilge pump symptoms don't make sense. My guess is something is damaged, like wiring or parts.

A good or bad float switch cannot draw extra current w/o some type of damage.

Here is a auto/manual bilge pump circuit, similar to that on the boat.

A very good standard practice is to do a complete engine compartment visual inspection prior to usage. That should include looking for "extra" parts on the floor and observing / listening to the engine once first started.

[The_Bear]

Well I'm glad I'm not they only person that thought the symptoms didn't make sense! 

I have a feeling that the wiring diagram is not as simple as the one you show. The bilge pump came on when the helm switch was flipped in spite of the fact that the bilge pump breaker was tripped. Anyhow, sounds like the system needs a thorough going through. The previous owner did a number of things that weren't really right that I've found so far. 

[beau1]

Both the switches are in parallel so there should be no different. However, when pump gets old or with debris in the bilge, there would be a chance of drawing more current at startup. In turn it would trip the fuse/breaker. Once the friction is clear, the subsequent pump start will draw a normal expected current. I will keep an eye on the pump and if it fails again, it may be time for a new one.