Hi All, i have a ‘99 310 SD and...

[Millah]

Hi All,

  i have a ‘99 310 SD and the port rudder shaft packing is driving me nuts. Re-packed this previous spring with the same stuff as original and it leaked the same way it did before repacking. I thought I cleaned the rudder shaft up pretty well but appreciate thoughts for doing it again next spring.

[rsg]

Search and you will find details on how to re pack rudders. I did this on my 98 330 DA at the beginning of this season and had no leakage this year. Wingless provided expertise so maybe he will add comments. Also are you sure they are leaking at the nut and not down at the mount where they are bolted to the boat?

In my opinion critical steps include:

1. Pull rudders out and clean shafts including light sanding to make sure they are smooth. Also clean the rudder nut which houses the packing along with retaining nut?
2. Use the right size packing rope probably 1/4 inch? I used the new graphite packing.
3. Alternate the seam within each re packing row so that they are positioned at 12, 3, 6 and 9 o'clock or opposite. Assuming you repacked 2 -4 rows.
5. Recommended you cut the ends of the packing rope at angle so that when they met they somewhat overlap at the seam where they come together.

Good luck

[rsg]

From wingless

wingless (Owner)
wingless
Welcome to the forum.

It is possible that new packing is not required, possibly only requiring an adjustment.

It is technically possible to effect the replacement w/o disassembly.

When I did mine, the boat was on-the-hard and I did a complete disassembly.

For mine, I purchased a complete assembly, w/ four layers of packing, staggered joints, joints cut at 45°, not butt edges, pre-shaped and all four layers fused as a shaped assembly, probably using wax.

That assembly is not required. It is possible to purchase an appropriate length of packing and do all that manually.

So, for mine, an automotive floor jack under the rudder pushing it up into the boat. Disconnect the steering ram and the side to side steering bar. Remove the steering arm. Remove the upper rudder support bar. Remove the packing nut. I also removed the jam nut.

Remove the old packing from the packing nut.

On mine, I used marine grease on the rudder block exterior threads. This makes adjustment sooo much easier. I also run the jam nut up and down, over and over again, until it moves freely.

The standard wide jaw adjustable packing nut wrench sold at West Marine has worked fine for me the half dozen times I've used this tool. IMO it has flimsy construction, but it is good enough. Two wrenches would be better, but I've made do with one.

When I did mine I also removed and replaced the rudder, coating the shaft with marine grease. This step is not required, but it is part of my over-the-top maintenance.

Loosely thread on the jam nut, circular part up and loosely thread on the packing nut.

Replace the upper rudder support bar.

Loosely attach the steering arm, w/ all washers in the same order and the key replaced.

Very important step, pump the floor jack so the rudder is pushed into the hull as tightly as possible.

Push the steering arm down as far as possible and tighten.

Replace cotter pin.

Repeat on opposite side.

Reassemble steering, replacing all locking parts.

[Millah]

Thanks for that. I did most of that with the exception of cleaning the nu - it is definitely coming out the top of the nut. One thing that I could not
find was guidance on the number of layers. I put 2 in because there were 2 there previously.(which leaked)

[Millah]

Thanks so much Wingless. Where do you purchase the assembly that you mention?

[wingless]

Welcome to the forum.

The parts were purchase over a decade ago. I am unable to locate that source.

Assuming standard packing is used, wrap each layer around the shaft, cut ends at 45°. Stagger the joints at each layer.

[Millah]

Thanks so much!

[rsg]

I used 1/4 inch graphtex which was carried by my local boat parts store ore you can order from Jamestown distributors. I installed 2 layers. Being careful not to disturb the packing re install packing nut until you need to tighten with wrench and tighten a bit more. Once back in water if still leaking tighten some more. May take a day or so for packing to absorb and expand so that there is no more leaking. Once leaking has stopped tighten up retaining nut. Monitor to see if any additional adjustments are needed.

[Bow_Tie]

Some times there are "3" rows of packing old packing material, make sure all the old material is out of the packing nut. Replace it with Graphtex, putting the seams at 180 degrees of each other. Tighten it down, if it continues to leak after that you may have re-tighten again (common). Also, before you put the new packing material in, clean the rudder post using a green pad and soap. Additionally, if you didn't get every piece of the old packing material out of the packing nut, it'll leak. As Wingless mentioned, a 45 degree cut at the seam is good, but not necessary with Graphtex. If you cut it with a razor blade about 1/16" longer than needed the seams will "butt" perfectly.