Sea Ray

Yup - replace the IAC. Simple to do. The low pressure warning may go away with the replacing of it. SmartCraft works on voltage, if one alarm goes off it can cause other things to pop up as well. The other thing you can do is swap IACs with the other motor and see if the problems moves to the other motor.

Gwhiz, I have a 2006 Sundancer DA 340 sports cruiser. Really loving it. I noticed that you have a color vessel view. Mine, which is original, is essentially black and white. Did you upgrade? I would like something more modern that will replace my existing original unit.

I just had a Mercury Vessel View 703 (7" screen), essentially a Simrad unit, installed for around $1.6k, and it was well worth it. The Smartcraft digital displays on the guages were so faded that I couldn't read them, and this was a big improvement.

Awesome! Sounds well worth the investment. Thank you so much for your prompt reply. I am on it!

Gwhiz, I also have an '06 340DA and like that display. Is that VV 703 screen a 'plug and play' to Smartcraft? Or require new sensors, wiring harness, etc?

The two major components, the Simrad and the Smartcraft Link come in the package with all wiring and connectors. I had a Marine Electrician hook it up for me just to be sure.

Gwhiz, Thanks, I've started researching the hardware. I understand the Mercruiser engine parameters will transfer via SmartCraft Link to the display. Do you know if other information is carried thru that link such as speed, heading, depth, rudder position, etc. that are shown on the current SmartCraft display?
Just asking, I'll need to contact a supplier prior to purchase.

All of the Smartcraft data that you get on your analog/digital gauges will be displayed on the Vessel View 703. My boat does not have the rudder position or the trim tab position sensors, so I didn't have that information available, still don't. Everything else is right there.

Gwhiz & Lakebum, I have been enjoying following your dialogue. I am committed to upgrading the original stock Vessel View on my 2006 340 DA. Love the idea of the 703, but see that the 903 is a newer version and is about the same price — sometimes a little less. Wondering if there is something about the 903 that will prevent it from working with the other electronics in place? Any thoughts about the 903 vs. the 703? I have 8.1 Twin V-Drive, so the rudder angle indicator (RAI) (sender installed) doesn’t work with the stock Vessel View. The owner’s manual is clear that this function is not available with V-drive. Would LOVE to have a working RAI as part of the new vessel view as I don’t believe that I will add autopilot. Would also love to monitor trim tab position. May just need to add a sensor for that. I’m pretty handy, but I believe that I will leave the installation to an electronics pro. Thoughts?

Not sure about any additional features on the Vessel View 903, since I did not consider it because of the size. The 9" screen would be very tight on my center dash panel, and the 7" screen fits well and is large enough to be easily read from the helm.

if the iac is bad the engine won't idle its easy to replace two allen bolts and a wiring connector under air filter on the side of trottle body i keep a spare in my boat 2007 310 5.7 with 1200 hours i have changed three since it was new

On my 2003 350MAG there is also a IAC Muffler which sits inside the throttle body, which also should be cleaned and/or replaced. Search for 35-863829. This can clog up and cause idle problems or trip the engine code.

Thanks for the info, mufflers good, IAC valve bad. Tested it by switching valve to other engine, fault displayed. Replaced valve, cleared the IAC output alarm.

BTW, love your 703 Vessel View! I have the exact same 2004 320 DA and engines. Your problem is very common. Keep a spare IAC valve in your boat. I always keep two.

More importantly, the cause is carbon buildup and can be reduced significantly by using SeaFoam spray to clean your throttle body. It is completely safe and very good for your throttle body and all airflow manifolds around the throttle body. The throttle body has a ridiculously small foam filter just before the IAC. You must check this tiny foam filter too. If it is dirty, it does not matter how many IAC modules you change, the engine will continue to fail. If you do not have a replacement foam filter, then use a pair of right angle needle nose pliers and gently pull the tiny foam filter out and place it in a small cup of SeaFoam and let it soak for an hour or so. Then stuff the filter back into the small chamber. The tiny foam filters can also be ordered from Sea Ray and other Merc dealers.

About every three months during the season I pour a gallon of SeaFoam into each gas tank. Perfectly harmless and will clean the gunk and carbon out of your fuel line orifices. Your engines will run and idle much better. Just before you change your oil, pour about 6oz into your oil intake cap. Take the boat out and run the engines for about 20 minutes up to 4000RPM. The SeaFoam will be distributed throughout the oil flow chambers, cylinders, etc. and will clean out the carbon buildup. Some smoke will come out of the exhaust, but not a problem, its doing it's job to burn up the carbon deposits. You are now ready to change your oil. Your engine will purr. I also put in about 6 oz at each oil change. It will not affect the viscosity, oil additives or detergents. If you have worked on small block Chevy engines over the past 50 years, then you know how good SeaFoam is for these engines. SeaFoam works for ANY engine, gas or diesel for that matter. There are other brands but the old time mechanics I've known for years stick with SeaFoam. You can buy it at just about any automotive retailer, Wal-Mart, or Amazon. I find NAPA has the best prices.

Your mechanic shouldn't be on your speed dial list!