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04-14-2018 12:31 PM
For anyone that has more than a 5 year old boat and the CO detectors have hit their "end of Life". The manufacturer of the OEM detectors in my boat no longer make a unit with the generator relay switch internal to the units. You have to buy a separate relay and try to figure out the wiring in your boat. After trying twice, the new units didn't like the way I had it wired. I found another unit from MTI (Safe-T-Alert 62 Series Carbon Monoxide Alarm W/Relay - 12v - 62-541-Marine-Rly-Nc - Surface Mount - White) that has the relay integrated so it's essentially a drop in. Also, these units are half the price of the original units which is a significant savings if you have 3 of them.
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04-14-2018 11:04 PM
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05-20-2018 12:00 AM
My 2005 42DA came with the Fireboy-Xintex CMD4 model which has been superseded by the CMD5 model. This model fits in the same screw holes as the old one, but you will have to cut the wires on the old one, and splice the wires on the new one.
Page 132 of the owners manual shows that there are (hidden) automotive type blade fuses for the CO detectors: Screen Shot 2018-05-07 at 10.51.16 PM.png
Since I didn't want to try to find them (I believe I would have had to unscrew the main DC switch panel to get to them), I figured out through trial and error that I could also cut power to them by turning off the Port Battery Solenoid: Screen Shot 2018-05-07 at 10.55.12 PM.png
Once the power was off, I was able to unscrew each detector from the wall, and pull out anywhere from 3-6" of wire from the wall. I stripped the wires, and used these Type B gel filled connectors to join the wires: Screen Shot 2018-05-07 at 10.57.48 PM.png I wrapped these connectors and the wires with electrical tape to further strengthen the joint.
Here are pics of each replacement CO detector, along with comments:
SALON: Screen Shot 2018-05-07 at 10.59.41 PM.png I chose a black CO detector here to better match the existing switches (the original detector was white), etc. I had no problem feeding the wire, and connectors back through the hole and then screwing the new detector to the wall.
MID STATEROOM: Screen Shot 2018-05-07 at 11.02.55 PM.png I did a white CO detector here since the upholstery on the wall was white. Feeding the wiring and connectors back through the hole was a little more challenging, but still fairly easy.
MASTER STATEROOM: Screen Shot 2018-05-07 at 11.05.01 PM.png I was going to go with another white detector here, however West Marine only had black ones left - and I didn't feel like waiting another couple days for them to get in additional. This was the most challenging. The wires run right under the upholstery, so there was no place to really feed the excess wire. As a result if you run your hand over the upholstery above the CO detector, it will fee lumpy as the wires are right under. If I were to do it over, I would try to cut off more wire so there was not as much excess.
OTHER NOTES:
1) The CMD5 models consume much less electricity than the old CMD4 models.
2) The CMD4 models had an always on green power light. On the CMD5 model, the light blinks green briefly once every 3 minutes. The green blink is so faint, I don't think it will bother anybody during nighty night time.
