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- Re: 2006 340 DA- Can anyone share advice...
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2006 340 DA- Can anyone share advice...
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11-24-2021 04:43 PM
2006 340 DA- Can anyone share advice on replacement of the 1.5" vacuum discharge hose from toilet to vac generator? The original hose is dry rotted and not holding vacuum. I have removed 96% of the glob of silicon from the hose on the cabin side of aft bulkhead. Still can't get hose to move. If the aft side of bulkhead to hose has same massive sealant I'm in trouble with a lack of access. My plan is to free up the hose and attach a barbed coupling to pull a new hose thru obstacles. Advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks
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11-24-2021 09:12 PM
Why not post an image(s) showing the problem?
The waste hose on my 2000 380DA appears to have appropriate access across the length and appears to be constructed from two joined 10' pieces, with access to those hose clamps at the joint.
Remember that they had sufficient access when building the boat, so that must be currently available.
As an example. it would be impossible to apply sealant to an area w/o access.
That hose should be sufficiently stiff to poke into the region, permitting it to be grabbed and connected.
On my boat the engine room near the waste tank has a vertical wall w/ a long wedge shaped volume, with this wall on one side, the hull on the other side and the deck on the top. That wall has a large cutout at the top to permit access to the volume interior.
My recollection is that the waste hose is routed through Schedule 40 PVC pipe glassed to the bottom of this volume, poking through the salon wall behind the 'fridge. I also recall lots of goop where the waste hose pokes through this wall.
The waste hose on my 2000 380DA appears to have appropriate access across the length and appears to be constructed from two joined 10' pieces, with access to those hose clamps at the joint.
Remember that they had sufficient access when building the boat, so that must be currently available.
As an example. it would be impossible to apply sealant to an area w/o access.
That hose should be sufficiently stiff to poke into the region, permitting it to be grabbed and connected.
On my boat the engine room near the waste tank has a vertical wall w/ a long wedge shaped volume, with this wall on one side, the hull on the other side and the deck on the top. That wall has a large cutout at the top to permit access to the volume interior.
My recollection is that the waste hose is routed through Schedule 40 PVC pipe glassed to the bottom of this volume, poking through the salon wall behind the 'fridge. I also recall lots of goop where the waste hose pokes through this wall.
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11-25-2021 05:17 AM
This image shows that wedge shaped cavity on my boat, w/ the glassed in Schedule 40 pipe containing the waste hose at the bottom.
For some reason Sea Ray used goop instead of fiberglass to seal the pipe to the engine room / cockpit wall. That goop is on the pipe, not on the waste hose.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51704609789_343fb84036_c.jpg
For some reason Sea Ray used goop instead of fiberglass to seal the pipe to the engine room / cockpit wall. That goop is on the pipe, not on the waste hose.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51704609789_343fb84036_c.jpg
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11-25-2021 05:20 AM
This image shows behind the 'fridge on my boat, w/ the gooped Schedule 40 conduit containing the waste hose, also sealed to that pipe w/ black goop.
In my case, this also shows an additional Schedule 40 pipe that is almost ready to be fiberglassed to that wall, for additional cables that will be run through that wall.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51703932966_aa9705afe5_c.jpg
In my case, this also shows an additional Schedule 40 pipe that is almost ready to be fiberglassed to that wall, for additional cables that will be run through that wall.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51703932966_aa9705afe5_c.jpg
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11-25-2021 09:02 AM
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11-25-2021 09:03 AM
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11-25-2021 09:07 AM
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11-25-2021 09:08 AM
I meant "coat it".
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11-25-2021 03:43 PM
Thanks for the images. Those are very helpful.
It looks like removing / replacing the goop at each location may be difficult but still possible to perform.
The Engine Room side looks like access would be improved by first removing the raw water strainer.
The others appear to have normal access.
IMO I would avoid adding an additional splice. There should be one already, to permit using standard 10' sections. I would replicate that on the replacement.
It looks like removing / replacing the goop at each location may be difficult but still possible to perform.
The Engine Room side looks like access would be improved by first removing the raw water strainer.
The others appear to have normal access.
IMO I would avoid adding an additional splice. There should be one already, to permit using standard 10' sections. I would replicate that on the replacement.
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11-25-2021 05:01 PM
Thanks, difficult (like many tasks) but possible. I wish to avoid additional splices. The 340 is arranged different from a 380. The 380 head is located near the berth, the 340 is located by the entry stair and a single hose approx 11- 12' in length. It may be possible to remove the strainer and bracket and rather than knifing off the silicon (with one hand access) use a 12v M-fuel r-cip saw with a long flexible/ bendable blade to flush cut both hose and goop perpendicular to the bulkhead sleeve penetration. There would be 'no second option' with this approach, if it works. So I'll need to remove toilet connection first to make sure hose will slide toward ER. Sometimes they install a cable tie out of sight and I don't know if the saw and flex blade will fit yet.
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11-26-2021 08:32 AM
If I were selecting a power tool instead of a utility knife to remove the goop and cut the hose flush, I would first lean to an OMT instead of a reciprocating saw out of concern for damaging the wall holes. I think I could have greater control for that operation using an OMT.
https://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14455-wingless-dcs355d1-20v-max-xr-omt-oscillating-saw-kit/#comment-201419
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7855/45648031495_f8f7ec12ab_b.jpg
It would surprise me if cable ties instead of worm drive stainless hose clamps are used on that waste hose.
https://forum.toolsinaction.com/topic/14455-wingless-dcs355d1-20v-max-xr-omt-oscillating-saw-kit/#comment-201419
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7855/45648031495_f8f7ec12ab_b.jpg
It would surprise me if cable ties instead of worm drive stainless hose clamps are used on that waste hose.
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11-26-2021 06:47 PM
Just want to say, thanks for posting this. I have the same boat and noticed the sewage hose rotting out too. I have a marine plumber coming out to fix my fresh water tank pickup tube and put this on the list for them to repair as well. Figure I might as well check off as many boxes as a can after waiting the 2 months to get someone to come out!
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11-26-2021 06:58 PM
Wingless, Good suggestion. Will see which tool will fit the space. Received 1.25" hose instead of the 1.5" ordered. Waiting on replacement. The 3 wire ties removed secured the hose to other hoses and attachment points. Not to seal connections. Need to be sure another is not hiding out of site.
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11-26-2021 08:05 PM
Ernie, Should be a straight forward job to replace a wear item like a hose, but not so in this case. Factory gooped on large quantity of silicon sealant on both sides of bulk head with difficult access to remove it. Prior photos show sealant removed on the cabin side next to 'shop vac' holding canister, it was a double hand full of silicon removed. Same task remains in the ER with hard to reach issues. Waiting on replacement hose prior to cutting. I have 2 pcs 1.5"x1.5" alum billet barb couplings arriving tomorrow from ICT Billet LLC (amazon) to try to pull new hose thru passage with old hose attached. Cannot use clamps as they would snag in openings. If I have to glue them in, so be it. Can be cut loose afterward. Good luck.
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11-26-2021 08:19 PM
Keep us posted! part of the reason I added this to the list of the marine plumber is that no one wants to do smaller jobs these days. Figured if I can get enough on the list, maybe they'll actually show up. I dunno about you guys but I've had multiple jobs booked where they say they have a 6 week wait, i say ok... when 6 weeks comes around, something comes up where they can't make it. Then I just end up taking a day off work to knock it out. time will tell if this ends up being one of those projects 🙂
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11-27-2021 04:12 AM
That ernie experience is just one of the reasons long ago I decided to always turn my own wrenches (plus I enjoy doing these projects and more).
There are other examples were the factory shows that they are investors in the sealant companies. The hydraulic trim tab tubes are surrounded by pyramid sealant piles for the above waterline transom protrusions.
On my boat they could have glassed in the end of that Schedule 40 pipe (containing this waste hose), like they did along the length, but instead used a massive amount of goop to seal this rigid pipe at the wall penetration, shown in a prior image link.
There are other examples were the factory shows that they are investors in the sealant companies. The hydraulic trim tab tubes are surrounded by pyramid sealant piles for the above waterline transom protrusions.
On my boat they could have glassed in the end of that Schedule 40 pipe (containing this waste hose), like they did along the length, but instead used a massive amount of goop to seal this rigid pipe at the wall penetration, shown in a prior image link.
