I have 2001 Sea Ray 180 BR, and...

[Crudo]

I have 2001 Sea Ray 180 BR, and can’t get it to turn over. Battery fully charged. Bought it this way, and struggling to figure out what to do. When key is turned, instrument panel does not function, radio, horn, nothing. What am I missing?

[wingless]

Welcome to the forum.

While it sounds horrible, a continuous fault is actually waaay better than an intermittent fault.

The "easy" solution is to follow the power path from the battery and determine where it ends.

When I am doing a task like that I use my DC voltage meter w/ the black (minus) lead alligator clipped onto a solid battery minus electrical terminal.

Do you already have the Sea Ray wiring diagram for that boat? That is a very handy tool for this job.

My 2000 380DA was wired by the factory using contactors, fancy name for a latching high current relay, that permits remote turning on / off of battery banks.

Does yours have contactors or manual battery disconnect switches? Are those in the ON position?

[Crudo]

What would those look like?

[wingless]

"Those" being the contactors and the manual disconnect switches?

Here is one of my contactors. On my boat, all are hidden in large covered plastic boxes in the engine room.

https://live.staticflickr.com/4699/38697254630_ca5a113d12_c.jpg

Here is a manual battery disconnect switch.

https://newcontent.westmarine.com/content/images/catalog/1500/281469_1500.10062019030024.jpg

[wingless]

On my boat, the contactors are controlled by standard rocker switches in the salon and in the engine room, as shown here, identified as MAIN BATTERY SOLENOIDS.

https://live.staticflickr.com/4629/25399626927_6418e9f6ec_c.jpg

[Crudo]

Unfortunately, neither of those images exist on my series of the boat listed.

[wingless]

Here is the Owner's Manual for your boat.

https://cdn11.bigcommerce.com/s-9t4wk8/images/stencil/2000x2000/products/3308/25780/WR345278__13321__02142.1461685304.jpg?c=4

Unfortunately the image quality is not terrific and also unfortunately the manual is generic for several models showing typical configuration for many items.

According to pages 68 and 69 there are one of two over current protection systems on the boat, one is the helm fuse panel, the other is the Electronic Interface Module (EIM).

It would be a huge surprise to me if there were not also the ABYC required master disconnect, such as the previously linked rotary switch.

My suggestion remains is to start DC voltage measurements at the battery and continue through the distribution until the loss is located.

[wingless]

Oops, wrong link.

Here is the manual:

https://bbg1.my.salesforce.com/sfc/p/#E0000000Z21E/a/E00000000UCp/PNYwpJU9EjFQBBaht3FYf3x9jGv7HChLpqSnz.gnRR8

[Aquamarine]

If I have the correct wiring diagram turn main battery switch on and check for voltage at the 50 amp breaker, should be red and violet wire. This wire goes through the engine #2 harness connector than feeds the main power to the fuse block. If you have voltage at the fuse block check #2 fuse that feeds the ignition switch. Hope this helps.

[Aquamarine]

Here the link to the diagram I was using.
https://manualzz.com/doc/54720303/sea-ray-180-bow-rider-owner-s-manual-supplement

[Stevie_P]

Did you check the battery switch?

[FLWestCoast]

Get out your voltmeter and start tracing. Aquamarine's suggestion is a good one. If you don't have power at the 50A breaker, you won't have much elsewhere.

I had a somewhat similar sounding problem - no power anywhere except for bilge and power trim (both run directly off battery). It turned out that my problem was a fuse that is down by the starter (2005 Sea Ray).

If you have power at the battery but no power at that 50A fuse, I would check that fuse.

[Nuss]

I had owned a Sea Ray 2001 185 BR with the 4.3 liter mercury engine and while boating the boat would just turn off for no reason. It turned out to be a loose connection with the cable that goes from the battery to the back of the engine. Tighten up all 4 connections from battery