Sea Ray

Thanks for responding, I need to check the model , I will get back with you , have to get to the boat. It is gas.

What I find on model # 5.0BCGB / 7.OBCGB. I am having trouble finding whether it is 5.0 or 7.0 . How do I determine this. Thanks for your help.

My 2000 380DA has the 7.0 BCGB, Yours probably has the same.

The preheat (ON) switch provides voltage to the carburetor choke solenoid, plus to the K2 RUN relay.

My guess is the problem is in the carb, not in the electrics.

When the carb is examined, does everything move freely?

At one point, stuff in my carb got sticky. I cleaned and lubed the parts, then all was good again.

My boat has three electric hull fuel shut off valves. The twist knob toggles from always on to electric on/off control. Does the generator get sufficient fuel when that valve knob is rotated to the always on position?

Thanks Wingless I will check all this out later today, I really appreciate your help. I was getting so frustrated with the fuel pump I removed it from gen and put it were easy access.

You're welcome.

FWIW, the fuel pump should operate continuously, slowing / stopping delivery when the carburetor float valve shuts off fuel flow, for a full carb bowl.

This is easy to audibly hear before the engine starts. Press and hold the preheat (ON) push button, listening to the only sound, the fuel pump. It will initially sound normal, then slow to a stop as the carb needle valve stops flow.

When I am starting my gen, I use that audible change as the timing to press the start button. Not for the effect on carb fuel level, but instead to allow the choke solenoid to move.

Also of note, on my boat there is a remote generator switch panel in the salon, in addition to the on board panel on the generator. The generator will start properly from the salon, but immediately stop when the preheat (ON) is released if the on board generator switch is in the OFF position, instead of the middle RUN position.

The attached housing image, prior to cleaning and painting, shows the model number label.

The same generator may be tuned for 50Hz or for 60Hz operation. When tuned for 50Hz, 1,500 rpm, the model number is 5.0 BCGB, when tuned for 60Hz, 1,800 rpm, the model number is 7.0 BCGB.

This attached fuel pump image, shows replaced hard fuel lines, replaced fuel pump, with all parts cleaned and painted.

Wingless, I took some pics today but I don’t know how to get them to send without your email. If you don’t want to give it to me I understand. I checked all linkage out and all is free working. What I found out today when I hold start button it never stops clicking, that has never happen before. That means no gas is getting to carb. Right? Also I checked the auto shut off and it is in the on position. That’s one of the pics. One of the other pics is how I mounted the fuel pump off of motor. The other pic is my optional fuel pump if the other one quits.

The forum permits attachment of one image per post, like shown in my replies above, or multiple image links like this in one post. Please post the images in the forum to benefit all, now and later.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/48901381777_a53823f14b_c.jpg

The linked image shows two of the Parker Skinner V5C72120 shut off valves on my boat, w/ electric control when the arrow points left and always on when the arrow points right.

Yes, if the fuel pump clicking doesn't slow when the gen is off and the preheat (ON) push button is held then it sounds like fuel flow isn't happening.

The GREAT thing about these boats is the on board spares. I've used those LOTS and LOTS to analyze the problem w/o having to throw expensive parts at the boat.

Why not just move the fuel line supplying the gen, from the gen valve to the starboard engine shut off valve, and twist that knob to the ON (right) position to see if fuel flow is restored? Same also for providing fuel to the engine through the gen valve, also in the ON position, to check that shut off valve?

Was the on board gen switches checked to determine if the OFF / RUN / START switch is in the middle RUN position so that the engine will continue running after the preheat (ON) switch is released?

Note, if moving the fuel hoses, that is for test purposes at engine idle only, because the gen has a small hose and the engine has a large hose.

The small hose would be fine for an engine idle rpm valve test, but too restrictive for normal operation.

Always be careful w/ fuel hoses to ensure secure and leak free prior to operation.

Wingless, again thanks so much for help. I am real cautious about gas issues and fires. Being an assisted firechief back years ago. I will check gen switch and make sure it is in the middle. Never had issue before. I have same shutoff valve. Can these valves go bad? Could something be restricting the gas at the pickup tube? Could the pickup tube fell off? I actual have two of the access ports From gas tank hook up to the shutoff valve. I thought maybe something was getting sucked up into pickup tube and that is why I hooked up the second one. Has not made a difference. I think in the last three years I have put about 100 hours on gen. I think I am on my 4th fuel pump, and the one now is banging from lack of fuel or getting hot. I still would like to know is there pickup tubes in the gas tank that are welded in place from factory. If so are they on every access port on top of tank? I will try to post pics of what I have did to resolve my problem with no success.

It is possible there is a problem affecting providing normal fuel to the generator pump. I have no experience with those possible problems. No idea on the fuel tank construction. I would guess they would have used replaceable tubes, to permit field service, like shown in the linked image.

The suggested proper swapping of parts will remove or confirm those concerns. If the gen pickup is bad, then usage of that on the idling starboard engine will detect that problem. Same also for the valves.

Additional caution, use thread sealant rated for gasoline on MPT fittings.

As is shown in my OEM fuel pump image, the 12VDC electric fuel lift pump is connected to an integrated raw water cooler.

Is it possible that the temporary fuel pump relocation is causing the problem, such as requiring the pump to provide excessive head, beyond the capabilities?

https://www.marinepartssource.com/electric-fuel-pump-gas-12-vdc-mmdw-40384?gclid=Cj0KCQjw3JXtBRC8ARIsAEBHg4kb_pbllL8EWCS83ji8M5zdNi_nkHw1dL0npryulFnPkGzq25DfCasaAvOfEALw_wcB

https://image.fisheriessupply.com/f_jpg/f_auto/t_Legacy-750x750/v1/static-images/moeller-marine-fuel-pickup-aluminum-withdrawal-tube-assembly-threaded

Wingless, again thanks for your help. Maybe one of these days/ years I can figure this out. I guess just keep replacing fuel pumps until problem solved.

You are welcome.

Please post image and updated results when available.

My Westerbeke 7.0 BCGB has been a solid performer, but I have been disappointed on the repair / maintenance parts cost.

What is the status of this issue?

I have to apologize for making this a new topic. Nothing had change since last October. Still trying to come up with a fix. I have tried some other things as I listed this morning.