Sea Ray

CRJ1 · ‎12-10-2019

I own a 2001 380DA and possibly need a new hot water heater. While winterizing I noticed some pooling of water under the existing hot water heater. It is located under the aft salon berth/couch and is difficult to access for troubleshooting. I extended the berth/couch and removed the top/back with the four attaching bolts. However, access to the hot water heater is still limited. Do I need to remove the other portion of the berth/couch and if so, how? Any recommendations for replacing the HWH (make/model) and plumbing suggestions. Thanks.

wingless · ‎12-10-2019

This topic shows the steps to access the water heater on my 2000 380DA.

It is possible the water heater is intact and the problem exists w/ the plumbing. Disassembly of the sofa and mechanism will permit evaluation of the problem.

Please report on the findings.

http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/wingless-2000-sea-ray-380-sundancer-water-heater-access-227576.html

wingless · ‎12-10-2019

Here is the Atwood EHM-6-SM 6 gallon water heater label. It may be useful if a replacement is required.

On my water heater I've needed to replace quick connect fittings, because of disassembly for winterization and because the factory cutout in the plywood mechanism frame was incorrect, making the plumbing take an unacceptable bend, causing fitting leaks. I corrected that problem by changing the plumbing cutout in the plywood frame.

It is possible that the heater element could fail, probably from power applied w/o water.

On mine I also swapped the blending valve to reduce the risk of scalding.

Mine was also freshened w/ new paint and new insulation.

This Atwood heater also has hose barbs for connection to the engine antifreeze. The factory did not make that connection. I did not modify my boat to make that engine heat connection.

[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49201239388_c182c975e8_c.jpg[/img]

CRJ1 · ‎12-14-2019

Thanks Wingless. The boat and systems are winterized and will get to the water heater access sometime within the next couple of months. Have included a picture of the WH and the water leak. Don't see any leaks around the hoses or fittings so suspect it is coming from beneath. Will post once I get into it.

wingless · ‎12-14-2019

You are welcome.

Thanks for the image, showing the standing water, the tank and the pressure / temperature relief hose.

Yes, there is a leak.

Locating the source might require pressurizing the fresh water system, or removing the water heater for external testing and possible disassembly. That sheet metal box skin may be completely removed to expose the interior metal tank.

A tank pressure test could be rigged using standard plumbing fittings w/ the water heater removed from the boat.

satisfied · ‎12-15-2019

Mine leaked at the quick connect as did wingless.. I took the same mathod as he did to correct the issue

BRUCE_SEA · ‎12-15-2019

Mine also leaked at the quick connector very slow but at the end of the day there was water around the water heater

CRJ1 · ‎01-07-2020

Wingless - What brand mixing/bleeding valve did you use? Mine currently has a Watts 70a valve 160/120 degrees. Might as well put a new one on the new heater. Thanks.

wingless · ‎01-07-2020

That was the same original and replacement part that was used.

The Watts 70A 120°F to 160°F has since been replaced w/ the LF70A series part. The LFL70A 100° to 130°F part is a better current choice. Note these mixing valves are NOT anti scald valves.

https://www.watts.com/dfsmedia/0533dbba17714b1ab581ab07a4cbb521/20397-source/es-lf70a-pdf

CRJ1 · ‎01-17-2020

Weather has allowed some troubleshooting. Found a leak (drip) at the output side of the mixing valve fitting. Pipe is 15MM and I am not sure about the fitting/adaptor type or replacement. Any advice for I have not worked with pex before. Thanks.

CRJ1 · ‎01-17-2020

https://www.dropbox.com/s/k2pxie2zhfjiwyw/HWH%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0

wingless · ‎01-17-2020

Good info and thanks for the image.

That PEX fitting is missing a part.

There should be a grey horse shoe part w tapered ends, pushed into the gap, to keep the sliding part in the full seal / full retention position.

Push in that sliding black part, remove the tubing, use a slice blade tubing cutter to cleanly chop off the existing end and create a fresh end for sealing.

If the missing part cannot be located, then get a replacement fitting, properly install that part, then fully push in that fresh end. It should seal w/o leaks. Long ago I purchased those fittings at the big box home improvement stores.

satisfied · ‎01-17-2020

https://www.westmarine.com/buy/whale-pumps--quick-connect-water-system-adapter-1-2-npt-male-to-15mm-brass--10724565?recordNum=10

replace the fitting..

CRJ1 · ‎01-17-2020

Thanks for the instructions and the part info. Really appreciate it!

BRUCE_SEA · ‎01-18-2020

Try to keep the red pex pipe coming out of the hot water heater as straight as you can, mine leaked at the fitting because the pipe was not supported and was being pulled down. after that it never leaked again

CRJ1 · ‎03-08-2020

Having brought the boat out of winter hibernation, I thought I would post final water heater results. Turns out the water heater does not leak and works fine. Thanks to Wingless for details required to disassemble/reassemble the sofa/berth and satisfied for fitting details, I replaced the fitting and solved what must have been a very slow leak. No drips - no errors and plenty of hot water.

wingless · ‎03-08-2020

Great news.

Thanks for the update.

Glad to help.

Sea Ray

I own a 2001 380DA and possibly...