I own a 2001 380DA and possibly...
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12-10-2019 06:47 AM
I own a 2001 380DA and possibly need a new hot water heater. While winterizing I noticed some pooling of water under the existing hot water heater. It is located under the aft salon berth/couch and is difficult to access for troubleshooting. I extended the berth/couch and removed the top/back with the four attaching bolts. However, access to the hot water heater is still limited. Do I need to remove the other portion of the berth/couch and if so, how? Any recommendations for replacing the HWH (make/model) and plumbing suggestions. Thanks.
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12-10-2019 07:54 AM
It is possible the water heater is intact and the problem exists w/ the plumbing. Disassembly of the sofa and mechanism will permit evaluation of the problem.
Please report on the findings.
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/f115/wingless-2000-sea-ray-380-sundancer-water-heater-access-227576.html
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12-10-2019 05:45 PM
On my water heater I've needed to replace quick connect fittings, because of disassembly for winterization and because the factory cutout in the plywood mechanism frame was incorrect, making the plumbing take an unacceptable bend, causing fitting leaks. I corrected that problem by changing the plumbing cutout in the plywood frame.
It is possible that the heater element could fail, probably from power applied w/o water.
On mine I also swapped the blending valve to reduce the risk of scalding.
Mine was also freshened w/ new paint and new insulation.
This Atwood heater also has hose barbs for connection to the engine antifreeze. The factory did not make that connection. I did not modify my boat to make that engine heat connection.
[img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49201239388_c182c975e8_c.jpg[/img]
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12-14-2019 10:37 AM
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12-14-2019 11:55 AM
Thanks for the image, showing the standing water, the tank and the pressure / temperature relief hose.
Yes, there is a leak.
Locating the source might require pressurizing the fresh water system, or removing the water heater for external testing and possible disassembly. That sheet metal box skin may be completely removed to expose the interior metal tank.
A tank pressure test could be rigged using standard plumbing fittings w/ the water heater removed from the boat.
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12-15-2019 07:52 AM
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12-15-2019 08:47 AM
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01-07-2020 01:03 PM
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01-07-2020 02:31 PM
The Watts 70A 120°F to 160°F has since been replaced w/ the LF70A series part. The LFL70A 100° to 130°F part is a better current choice. Note these mixing valves are NOT anti scald valves.
https://www.watts.com/dfsmedia/0533dbba17714b1ab581ab07a4cbb521/20397-source/es-lf70a-pdf
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01-17-2020 10:22 AM
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01-17-2020 10:32 AM
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01-17-2020 10:49 AM
That PEX fitting is missing a part.
There should be a grey horse shoe part w tapered ends, pushed into the gap, to keep the sliding part in the full seal / full retention position.
Push in that sliding black part, remove the tubing, use a slice blade tubing cutter to cleanly chop off the existing end and create a fresh end for sealing.
If the missing part cannot be located, then get a replacement fitting, properly install that part, then fully push in that fresh end. It should seal w/o leaks. Long ago I purchased those fittings at the big box home improvement stores.
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01-17-2020 12:49 PM
replace the fitting..
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01-17-2020 01:02 PM
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01-18-2020 09:33 AM
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03-08-2020 06:16 AM
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03-08-2020 07:26 AM
Thanks for the update.
Glad to help.