Sea Ray

Thanks for the reply.

Do you have any suggestions where to find the replacement motor? The problem we had is the motors failed before the rams completely retracted, there was still pressure on the ram so the pins could not be removed. We had to completely unbolt the assembly. The hatch is extremely heavy so we had to jury rig an A frame and use a come a long to lift the hatch assembly. Access holes to pull the pins were not exactly in an easy place to reach in so we will probably correct that situation when everything is working.

Sure, the lead screw actuator on my boat is a Warner / Thomson / Electrak DM12-10A5-12OE 4199.

That is a LA10 actuator, 12 VDC, 10:1 ACME screw, 12 inch, OEM adaptor hole, No anti coast brake and 4199 configuration.

Find a gooood chair when calling for price and availability for the replacement motor.

The my linear actuator uses the DM12 motor, or 9200-635-005, the Motor Repair Kit.

These are the sources (old) for that part: Eastern Bearing, Fred Duncan (401) 781-7171, or Applied Industrial (954) 974-8000, or Miller Bearing (954) 491-6222, or Danaher Linear Motion Systems (800) 566-5274 or (716) 691-9100.

Could you please post an image showing the system they provided that permits pulling the pin if the actuator fails?

Is the access to pull the lift pins under covers inside the compartment covered by the aft cushion shown in this image?

http://newimages.yachtworld.com/resize/1/15/79/5881579_20160722102810047_1_XLARGE.jpg?f=/1/15/79/5881579_20160722102810047_1_XLARGE.jpg&w=924&h=693&t=1469212302000

If so, then pulling the pins would be no problem w/ the hatch fully closed and all the load off the pins.

A partially open hatch creates a big problem (as you know) for pulling the pins.

It seems likely to me that the two actuators are not providing identical lift force. If the force is different, then the cover could cock crooked, making the problem worse.

My suggestion would be to remove both actuators, then setup a test to quantify the performance of both actuators in their current condition. The test would be to have the actuator base stationary, then use the ram to move a load, timing the displacement. This could either be sliding a load across the floor, attempting to maintain "constant" friction for each test, or raising a load vertically. My suggestion would be to have the actuator working at 50% to 80% of the rated load for the timing test.

The voltage must remain constant for the test.

The next step would be to disassemble the gear train and the lead screw for cleaning and lubrication.

The timing test would then be repeated.

It might be that normal operation is restored by cleaning and lubrication.

If the displacement tests have more than 20% difference, then one or both motors should be replaced.

Creating a jammed hatch solution will be difficult because it could jam anywhere along the travel, so lifting the hatch to remove the force for removing the pins requires something that tolerates that wide height requirement.

Can't the hatch be lifted by one person w/ the pins removed? The hatch on my boat can be raised and lowered by me, then one hand used to hold the hatch, while the other either moves the prop rod or inserts / removes the pin.

There is a round access plate in the area accessed by the power area on the starboard side, accessed from the swim float/and or from under the seat cushion but complicated by a plywood separator. Under the cushion on the port side there is another access plate. As you mentioned removing the pins is made difficult when all the load is not off the rams. With pins out the hatch is still heavy.

I will pass your testing procedures on to the person attempting repairs.

I replaced mine on my old 340. If you can get to the actuator and look at the decal for a model # Google that and you should be able to find them. The dealer wanted like $800 and I paid more like $350-400

Thanks. At this point it looks that the culprit is electrical. My repair person found replacement electric motors. The rest of the contraption is ok so just needs cleaning and lubrication. Hopefully this solves the situation. I may just buy two extra electric motors for just in case.

Thanks for the info
Dick

Also, Marine Max said the assembly is no longer stocked. They could however work on finding something. I will say in most cases so far the local dealer has been very helpful.

They are very helpful however sometimes the prices are a little crazy

As for the fail safe to open latch when batteries are dead, you can just back feed 12 volts into cigarette lighter using a portable jumper unit. SeaRay provided the 12 volt adapter with owners manual, although they are easy to find anyway.

try progressive automation.

Thanks for all the advice. We replaced the actuators with a Lenco product. Also wired in some lugs to the access panel in the stern where shore power plugs in so we can just connect a jump from there. I am at a loss to know why the surveyor did not see the corrosion during the inspection on May 10, 2016.