Hello again, working on our 1989...

[Hano_P]

Hello again, working on our 1989 Weekender 300. Looking for guidance on batteries and battery switches. Currently have 2 batteries installed, both deep cycle. Is it correct to have 2 deep cycle batteries, or should one be a starter battery and one a deep cycle? Is it worthwhile to upgrade to a 3 battery setup? We will be spending hours at a time anchored on the lake.  The boat is equipped with 2 on / off battery switches or isolators (picture attached).

Appreciate any guidance. Thanks

[wingless]

It is too bad that the Perko and the Guest switches have ON and OFF transposed.

Deep cycle batteries are fine for starting. My preference is the Lifeline GPL-31XT. It is the only 125Ah group 31 battery, having about 25% more capacity than all other batteries. I updated my boat from 5 to 6, so I can have 3 or 5 of these for house batteries, for more on hook run time.

https://lifelinebatteries.com/products/marine-batteries/gpl-31xt/

https://live.staticflickr.com/4514/37072246074_d2bbab741d_c.jpg

It is acceptable to properly add additional batteries in parallel to increase the ampere hour capacity. Always follow ABYC standards, upgrade as appropriate.

All batteries connected in parallel should be identical, same manufacturer, model and date code, so one doesn't work harder during charging and discharging.

A wiring improvement would be to secure all cables near those switches, in case a single point failure of the crimp failing happens, so they don't flop around loosely. Most are already secured.

It looks like the contactor has been retired. Was that "Emergency Start"?

A three bank setup isn't required. Mine has that, w/ the third bank being for the generator only. I like it because if I'm an idiot and flatten both banks, I can still start the gen and then recharge the batteries.

Ensure the on board battery charger is appropriate for the batteries.

[Hano_P]

Thanks for the info. Could you clarify the "contactor" comment? I do not know what you are referring to.

[wingless]

YW

Between the two rotary switches is a contactor, high current leads on each side and control signals in the center.

It is like a relay, but designed for continuous operation.

Some latch on / latch off, not requiring energizing current to be continuously applied.

In the image, that contactor appears to only have one control wire, disabling it from functioning as originally intended.

[Hano_P]

I do appreciate the education...what is the purpose of the contractor with regard to boat operation? The boat ran fine at the end of last season, when we purchased it. Is it a hazard situation without the connection? Where should the wires connect to?

[wingless]

The factory built my 2000 380DA using four contactors in place of the rotary battery switches.

From either the salon or the engine room, a momentary tap on a switch toggles those latching contactors from on or off, for the port, starboard or generator banks. The windlass contactor only toggles on/off from the helm.

There is also an additional fifth contactor, a momentary contactor, energized from the helm, labeled "Emergency Start" that shorts port and starboard together as a low battery starting aid.

Does the boat have an Emergency Start switch?

[Hano_P]

Yes it does

[wingless]

My speculation is that nothing happens when that switch is pressed.

There should be an audible click from that contactor when pressing that switch. For that to happen those small control threaded terminals should each have a wire. From the image only one has a wire.

[Hano_P]

I think you are correct with regard to nothing happening. Do the wires go to the emergency start switch?

[wingless]

That contactor requires +12VDC across those control terminals to activate and to short those two high current lugs together.

At least one control wire must go to the helm emergency start switch.

[Hano_P]

I will have to do some more detail investigating. Thank you for the focused clarification. Will be back after I get a better look at the wiring.