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Hello. I have a 2000 290 Amberjack...

MosesKoko
Guest Contributor

Hello. I have a 2000 290 Amberjack with Twin 5.7 liter Mercruiser EFI engines. Apparently the port needs to be repowered. When my storage facility tried to launch the boat this spring there were issues. 2 repairs later it turns out that the issue is deeper then originally expected. My 2018 season may be over without ever getting started. Frustrating to say the least but I want to make sure I make the right decision(s) going forward. What should the approx. cost be to repower the Port side engine? With 470 hours on the Starboard engine should I consider repowering both?

 

Thanks in advance. 

 

John

15 REPLIES 15

MosesKoko
Guest Contributor
Forgot to mention its a Stern Drive.

wingless
Rising Contributor
What issues exist mandating the repower? Is it reasonable / likely that the issues affect both engines? Can testing or partial disassembly of the starboard engine reveal is the problem also exists?

Repair cost is just one (important) factor. Other issues are competence of the service department and the quality of work performed. Another factor is how they stand behind their work.

IMO, starting w/ both engines at the same point has significant value.

It is zero fun being a Pakled wanting to go when the other engine breaks, making you want to vent your Bussard collectors in retaliation.

MosesKoko
Guest Contributor
Hello Wingless. I don't know much about the service department. It's where I bought the boat last season. Everything had been delayed with a lot of excuses. I had to store my boat there because it took a long time to get it on the water. I don't have a ton of trust in the service. In addition to posting here I'm trying to get opinions from other qualified techs locally.

I was told that water keeps getting in the oil and the block is the issue. I asked about the Starboard and they told me is looks good and should be OK for a few more seasons. Of course the Port was perfectly fine until it wasn't. What's frustrating is that it went from being winterized and stored at their location, tune up and oil change, launched with issues, replaced the coil assembly because that the was problem until it wasn't. Relaunched with issues and now the block is the issue with a suggestion to replace the port engine.

wingless
Rising Contributor
A broken block, with water leaking, immediately after commisioning in the Spring is indicative of improper winterization to provide sufficient freeze protection.

Assuming they performed that service on a good engine at the end of the last boating season, then the discussion needs to start w/ damage from their probable incorrect service.

MosesKoko
Guest Contributor
That was my initial thought but of course they disagree. They claimed they would have seen it when they first launched it. Of course it could have been there on the initial launch when they claimed the issue to be a coil assembly.

Thanks for your thoughts.

wingless
Rising Contributor
The boat was winterized while operating properly.

The boat was commissioned and was broken, with the initial (incorrect) diagnosis being a bad coil.

The later (correct) diagnosis was a cracked block.

The causes for a cracked block are overheating or freeze damage.

With a properly operating engine at storage, then overheating does not look like a reasonable cause.

The only source remaining is incorrect winterization.

The problem resolution needs to be escalated until correct responsibility is attained.

wingless
Rising Contributor
My assumption is that the block is cooled by raw water, not antifreeze.

If that's correct and if the damage was caused by improper winterization, then in addition to the cracked block then it is possible there may be freeze expansion plugs that have been moved from their normal position, providing additional proof of that improper storage service. The freeze plug may look okay, it might not be leaking, but it might be pushed out of the bore, not in the normal location.

A small video camera on the end of a cable, or a handheld camera taking photographs would permit seeing the freeze plugs prior to engine removal.

https://images0.boattrader.com/resize/1/5/90/6570590_20180105101254592_1_LARGE.jpg?t=1276060

Captain_Zero
Guest Contributor
If both motors are original. I would do both. The likely hood of the other...having lived its life in the exact conditions as the now blown motor, it probably is getting close. As far as cost... A Mercury repower package is a complete engine, in other words drop in and start. Engine, transom and outdrive. A 350 mag around 12-15 k for parts. Michigan motorz sells complete motors for around 5 k. Mercury package all is NEW. Everyone else for most part is rebuilt..

----
Guest Contributor
You have a legal problem. If you contracted a company to properly winterize and now have a bad motor, or an overheated motor with a root cause of: improper winterizarion-causing a cracked block causing improper cooling upon use. This cost is on the winterization people. Take your boat to a different reputable shop, diagnose, grab your contract from last fall and sue.

----
Guest Contributor
Kids can't be responsible for draining blocks. Men willing to rod the rust out of drains and "ensure" it's fully drained must do it

wingless
Rising Contributor
Proper winterization of the raw water circuit goes well beyond removal of drain plugs, plus any crud that might be obstructing flow.

The block casting has many cavities that won't ever drain once the drain plug is removed. Leaving that remaining raw water in the block exposed to freezing temperatures is a bad idea.

The raw water circuit must be properly flushed w/ the proper freeze resistant liquid, to displace / replace the water w/ a liquid that won't freeze to the expected temperature. Any liquid dilution must be factored-in to the protection temperature.

Those commercially-available liquids also provide corrosion protection.

When I was winterizing my boat I used a checklist to ensure proper storage protection for all systems.

----
Guest Contributor
I disagree and so does the Mercruiser Manual. I have drained my boat for 8 years with -40 Celsius with never using antifreeze and never a problem. The Drains are on the low points for a reason, to drain? I Know the crevices in a block below the drain taps. By design there is not enough water to cause any damage.


Thank you Wingless, you helped seal my decision to never read your posts again. Bye

Captain_Zero
Guest Contributor
Just as a foot note and someone who has had now 12 mercruisers and have done engine rebuild and swaps for not only myself but others. It has been my overwhelming finding that most water intrusions into the crank case is due to the exhaust manifolds rusting out and allowing raw salt water to enter the exhaust valves. it happens very quickly and there is no predicting or prevention once it happens. More than likely your exhaust manifold developed a leak into the valve train. That takes out the motor in mere moments under a load. Just sayin....

wingless
Rising Contributor
Morse Code should quantify the value of the time saved by not reading my posts, then send that money to my PayPal account,

Morse Code makes a great point. Follow the Mercury Manual, not Internet nonsense.

The OP has a 5.7 Mercruiser EFI engine. When I examine Mercury Mercruiser Service Manual Number 24, for the 5.0L and 5.7L V-8 engines, it has this information in the winterization section:

IMPORTANT: Mercury MerCruiser recommends that propylene glycol antifreeze (nontoxic and biodegradable) be used in sea-water section of the cooling system for cold weather or extended storage. Make sure that the propylene glycol antifreeze contains a rust inhibitor and is recommended for use in marine engines. Be certain to follow the propylene glycol manufacturer’s recommendations.

The Mercury manual has an extensive section on winterization. Following the manufacturer's instructions is always a good idea,

MosesKoko
Guest Contributor
Hello Hydra. Thanks for commenting. You're response is very similar to the one that I received from the Manager at the service center regarding my engine. We have a relatively short season and I have to travel heavily for my job in September so I'm going to delay the re-power until Spring. That will also give me time to consider if I want to do both the Port and Starboard or just the required Port. Thanks.