Sea Ray

Bought used in 2015 so I am not sure how old the manifold and risers are. Its a salt water boat.

Monday I will look at the risers to see it they are all scaled up.

But I am concerned that the h20 pressure reading at 3500 rpms does not go above .07?

Thank you

H2O sensor pressure? Maybe O² sensors?

FWIW, the exhaust parts are obscenely expensive and provide a short service life when not flushed, so start flushing w/ fresh water then Salt Away, or equivalent. On my custom designed exhaust I also use soapy water and drain bone dry until the next operation.

Ii am having a freshwater hookup being installed too

Thank you

Wingless, just a question related to your flush procedure as it would relate to winter layup. An old Merc tech once told me that for long-term layup the cooling system should always be flushed and only engine anti-freeze (enviro friendly stuff) circulated through. His reasoning was that leaving it "dry" or even circulating the pink AF does nothing to inhibit corrosion and may even enhance it. So That's what I've been doing on all my boats for years. I figured I was being overly cautious but wonder if I'm just wasting money. Sorry for hijacking the thread but was wondering on other's thoughts.

When I winterized my boat I ran the engine winterizing fluid through the engine and the pink stuff through the fresh water / waste water. That process is gone now that the boat is in Florida.

Wingless, that was my routine as well. Now that we live on the water with our own dock the "big boats" are gone so no freshwater systems to winterize. Thanks for responding.

I had the same issue with my 2006 240 sundeck with the same engine. Went through all the same fixed as you have and in the end I had to replace the manifolds and risers. Boat is fine now.