NEW TOPICI purchased my sundancer...

[Wilks1]

NEW TOPIC

I purchased my sundancer used about a year ago. It came with "Sunbrella" canvas. My issue is difficulity installing the eisenglass inserts in several areas.

(A) The three sections along the windshield. They are about the easiest to install, however I have to have front straps loose to do so.

(B) Sides eisenglass I can "work it" and get eather the port or starboard ones in, but only ONE!!

      the other side misses eather the channel or zipper (I've tried it both ways) by a good inch and 

      a half.

My conclustion, to this point, is the bimini top has shrunk!!

I was told by Sunbrella to thoroughly wet the bimini and try installing the eisenglass panels.

Haven't tried it yet to find out but thought I'd post my issue and see if anyone agreed with that or had any suggestions.

Thanks, Ron 

[wingless]

It is unlikely that the top can be adjusted to gain 1½" on the side Eisinglass panels.

The adjustments include loosening the set screws in the stainless frame fitting so they many be moved on the tube.

The other option is to attempt stretching the panel on a hot sunny day.


http://images0.boattrader.com/resize/1/51/42/6095142_20170207084427882_1_LARGE.jpg?t=1239967

[Markie1949]

I have the same exact issue on my Sundance. In the beginning of the winter season it is a real struggle to get the clear panels snapped into position. I loosen up the top as best I can and get the heater going in the cockpit area to aid in stretching the top and side panels. It's not a fun job and really takes a toll on my thumbs and shoulders. With a great amount of strain I am usually able to snap most of the snaps on the clear panels and then stretch the top back into place with a lot of creaking and groaning of the canvas material. I'm afraid one of these days something is going to split or tear or both. I'm looking for ideas as well. I considered either having new slightly larger clear panels made or have a few snap extensions made as opposed to going threw the standard circus routine.

[wingless]

Raising the fittings for the center and the forward stainless top hoops as high as possible will lower the top canvas as much as possible.

The two benefits are that the top will be taught and that the side Eisinglass will have the best opportunity to be attached properly.

Ensure that the top is completely centered prior to securing the hoop fasteners.

The straps should not be taught when attempting to install the Eisinglass.

[Wilks1]

Whew!!! Thought I was loosing my mind with this issue.
The bottom of my eisenglass panels have a rubber strip running the length of the panel. This can be pushed into a channel along the windshield and side glass framework. The upper part of the eisenglass panels have zippers that attach it to the bimini top. Nothing on mine has or requires snaps.
As far as the bimini frame hoops suggestion, I'm going to give that a try.
Plus leaving it up in the sun all day, usually don't need a heater in Florida to warm thing up and try that. If no luck will try what Sunbrella suggested a wet the top thoroughly

[wingless]

Is the rubber strip a Keder welt?

http://www.sailrite.com/Keder-Awning-Rope-Tape

Is the channel an awning rail?

http://www.sailrite.com/Flex-A-Rail-White-45

If so, then sliding the parts into position from the end may work better than pushing them i=together.

[BarcaBlu]

I had the same exact issue.

The front panels would have to be partially put together and snapped before being fully zipped (mine has snaps.)

I would leave the side panels unsnapped because I was afraid I would rip them if I kept pulling on them. It didn't bother me at all to leave them unsnapped because it still kept wind and rain out.

I've since purchased new front and side panels and I never installed the snaps on the side panels because I don't think they really need to be snapped. The new front panels zip up like a dream!

[Brite_Idea]

Let the eisenglass panels lay in the sun. When you go to install the panels be sure to have everything loose, the straps and extend the poles to allow ease of zippering.

[SRSD320]

I had the same problem last year. Our SD had rarely used its front and side windows as it had been stored under a roof, and the pieces were kept out of sight. I called Great Lakes and was told they would fit if warmed up...ok if that's your climate and once in you don't want to take them out. GL also said any new replacement would be the same pattern. I found this website, http://www.canvas-boat-cover-and-repair-advisor.com/ez-xtend-boat-zippers.html
and used their Extend Zippers all last year. They worked. That said, I just had all new canvas and strata glass made, to give the boat overall a newer look, and improved visibility. The original GL two tops and front and side windows are available, off our 2004 SD320, in beige, if anyone wants them. Say, $200 plus shipping.

[Wilks1]

I went to the website, all I can say is WOW!!
This looks it might be the answer to my problem. Simple idea but pure genius!! Have to do the zipper measurement they show but do beleave they are #8's. One way or the other I'm going to give this a try.
Thanks for the tip and website link. I'll let you all know how it turns out.

[BobK]

I also found that a handheld garment steamer worked very well. It didn't get things too hot and could heat where needed. the eisenglass absorbs a heat as it condenses the steam making it more pliable.