Sea Ray

D_LRay · ‎05-18-2021

Getting ready for the new season in my new (to me) 1978 Sea Ray SRV 220 OV (Overnighter). I purchased it last year as a project boat. The owner took us on a demo ride and the engine overheated so we shut it down immediately and towed back to the launch ramp. After it cooled off I I bumped the ignition and it turned over a couple times but I did not start it.

During the winter I took off the lower end and discovered the impeller was seized. I replaced the impeller with a full kit including the cover.

The main battery was purchased by the other owner in 2020 so I did not replace it, but the accessory battery, even though seemingly good and holding a charge was 6 years old. I replaced it and kept both batteries in a heated garage and trickle charged them about every month or so.

I have been working on the interior and nothing else, especially electrical.

The engine will not start. It doesn't even try to start, no clicking, nothing. I disconnected all 4 battery cables and cleaned with a wire brush on both ends. The circuit breaker on top of the engine is not popped, I have tried starting while moving the shift lever back and forth in case it wasn't full in neutral.

I am really confused as to what to try next. I am pretty sure the shift cable was engaged and in forward position when I reinstalled the lower end but not 100% positive. How can I check? If I have it in gear I shouldn't be able to turn the prop, correct?

Any tips will be appreciated.

Don

Steele_y_Tutz · ‎05-18-2021

Can you put a socket on the crank and turn it?

D_LRay · ‎05-18-2021

I'll try tomorrow

wingless · ‎05-19-2021

Welcome to the forum.

Assuming wiring and color codes based on my Mercruiser (I don't have documentation for the OP engine).

Using a DC voltage meter, black wire connected to the engine block ground, measure DC voltages using the red lead.

The Red / Purple wire should have +12VDC when the engine is on. Measure on the rear of the circuit breaker. The Red lead from the circuit breaker to the starter should also have that same +12 VDC.

The small Yellow / Red lead to the starter slave solenoid, up high on the engine block should have +12 VDC when the starter switch is pressed.

The thick Yellow / Red lead on that same starter slave solenoid should also have the same voltages.

My 100% speculation guess is the starter slave solenoid has gone bad. My spare parts arsenal includes two of these, just in case.

D_LRay · ‎05-20-2021

I looked yesterday to see if I could understand the instructions you sent and will borrow a meter today.

Also I took 3 pictures of another issue that might be related might not.
Picture 1:While poking around on the rear of the engine block, behind the distributor and the shift linkage adjusters, I followed 2 wires from a terminal block with 2 sections with screws for each side to keep them seperated, down through a round hole. 1 was loose and I realized it was broken and frayed.
Picture 2: I followed it down on the underside of that plate and it looks like a lightweight double wire, like speaker wire. The frayed wire is 1 part of the wire and the other part is intact and connected on top at the terminal block. That double wire proceeds on down out of sight into the stern drive.

THat wire looks like it has been broken a long time maybe so I am curious as to what it is for? Should I ignore it and proceed with the No start issue? Maybe I could jumper the 2 halves to see if it does something?

Steele_y_Tutz · ‎05-20-2021

The one looks to be the trim sensor/limit switches. The one that looks like a lamp cord. Both of our boats don't have them functioning and run great without. Just don't have the trim gauge on the dash and the drive will travel over angle when running. Just have to watch your trim when running.

D_LRay · ‎05-20-2021

Thank you, that is a relief. Also, the engine turned over with a breaker bar, I only went about 1/3 revolution. I didn’t want to score the cylinders.

Steele_y_Tutz · ‎05-20-2021

So that is good that it wasn't hydrolocked. So I would check to make sure you have power to the key switch. If there is power there (both sides in/out) then check the exciter wire at the starter. This one wire can go bad and cause a "nothing" when trying to start. Seen it many of times. Check that and let us know. If you need to, let me know and I can try to find my old book.

gtstang462002 · ‎05-30-2021

Those older mercruiser engines had issues with the bulkhead connector on the motor coming loose and exhibiting the "nothing happens" symptoms you are describing. Check for corrosion in that connector also and reseat it. The common fix for it is to wrap a ziptie through the harness and around the connectors to hold it tightly in place.

gtstang462002 · ‎05-30-2021

Without actually seeing the full picture I am not sure on those wires that you displayed in your 3 picture image. The purple wire could be your trigger wire for the starter, but it has been years since I have had the pleasure of working on an '80s vintage mercruiser. Either way you want to fix those compromised wires.

D_LRay · ‎08-15-2021

1978 SeaRay SRV 220 OV
Engine# 5068191
Hull ID# SER1922A0378-2200V890

Thanks all for your help it led me to the answer I think. I was able to start and drive the boat for about 45 minutes on Granby Lake, CO 8800 foot mountain lake. But when returning to dock it was difficult to get to neutral and reverse. Ended up calling the marina and having them catch me as I shut off the engine to coast to a hard stop.

I adjusted the remote and lower shift cables several times then finally concluded it might be the shift cut out switch on the transom plate. I've heard it called several similar names but found a file that listed it as:
The shift cut out switch Mercruiser/Quicksilver part # 39670A28. It basically crumpled in my hand when I tool it out to test it. I alos need to find the terminal block on the shift bracket, Mercruiser/Quicksilver part # 8666986 fell down into the back of the transom and I can't find it.

I think they are not available new but I need some sort of replacement. Any suggestions for suppliers would be welcome.

Would it be plausible to just get a spring loaded switch that I could mount on my shift handle to flick manually when shifting from forward thru neutral to reverse and reverse thru neutral to forward to monetarily kill the engine?

Getting desperate here now so any thoughts?

Don

Steele_y_Tutz · ‎08-15-2021

Don, call me tomorrow. I have what you need. I have the complete inner transom mount with all the electrical and brackets complete for a 165. 208-504-9089 Just don't try to sell me an extended car warranty. I get enough of those calls.

Steele_y_Tutz · ‎08-16-2021

Parts are packaged and ready to ship. I left about 60% of the factory die electric grease on the switch. If you need anything else from the era, let me know. Do you want standard three day or overnight shipping?

Steele_y_Tutz · ‎08-20-2021

Did you get them parts and are they what you were needing?

D_LRay · ‎08-21-2021

I received a notice they were delivered today so I will check my PO Box tomorrow, or else Monday when the window is open. Thanks for all the advice and shipping the parts so quickly.

Steele_y_Tutz · ‎08-21-2021

Let me know if there is anything else.

D_LRay · ‎08-22-2021

I picked up the parts today and I am really encouraged by the switch. The old one was in terrible shape so hopefully it has been my problem all along.
I will try to get it installed tomorrow.

Sea Ray

Getting ready for the new season...