1999 Sea Ray 500DA refrigerator...

[Chris_Vickery]

1999 Sea Ray 500DA refrigerator question - my fridge stopped working entirely (it appears not to have power).  everything else on the boat is working normally.  i know there are a few gfci's throughout the boat in odd places that sometimes trip and cause appliances to lose power.  does anyone know if the fridge is on a gfci and if so, which outlet?  it's not the one under the galley sink or cabin stairs or starboard head.  

[Coast_N]

I have a 95 and for ours it is not on a gfi and has the plug directly behind the unit, only accessible by pulling the refrigerator or by removing the coffee maker and a panel. I am pretty sure there is only one circuit for the entire galley.... maybe the plug just worked it’s way out enough to not make contact?
I would say if the other counter plug or if you have the can opener , if those work then the plug should be good
Hope that helps
Anything else let me know

[Big_mike1]

The inverter is bad 12 v 110 u will see plug goes to it to unit then plugs in wall they always go bad happened to me on 2 Searay boats have to pull Refrig out on top of frig in back

[Big_mike1]

It is not on gfi

[Big_mike1]

It’s so u can run frig on either 110v or 12 v very common issue I think there a $100

[SMT]

I have a 97 450. If it is like mine it runs off 120v and has a plug directly behind the frig. I have owned my boat for about 7 years and on and off have had problems. If you have no lights inside it is not getting power. I rebuilt my frig (not the compressor) with parts and it ran for about a year then another part would die. I replaced last year (20 years old). Figure it will be good for anther three to five years.

[Chad_Sundance_s]

If the breakers and GCFI are good and your panel switches are in the on position the logical next step would be to pull out the unit and check the inline fuse and the splice in the wire to the 110 plug and that the plug is secure.

[Alumofcu]

I also have a 500 DA. There is a GFI in the cockpit down by base of table. Check that one. Kinda hidden. Then when you find them, put a label there. There is also one under the sink in crew head. I haven’t found the others if there is anymore.

[Shark]

the refr. would not be on a gfi . It is plugged in at the back of the refr. You most likely need to put refrig. out from wall and check back for power. Then go from there, maybe hiring someone to check compresser

[wingless]

The Danfoss compressor system has a diagnostic LED electrical connection, permitting attachment of an LED with a series current limiting resistor.

When I replaced the failed controller module on my refrigerator I permanently wired that diagnostic LED and mounted it to be visible through a vent slot.

This setup permits understanding why the 'fridge isn't happy w/o needing to yank it out.

Here is my diagnostic LED.

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[Big_mike1]

It is definitely the inverter
120v to 12v it’s on back of frig pull it out plug wire goes into it then to wall no gfi on frig

[wingless]

The Danfoss Electronic Unit has several systems, one of them being the inverter, as shown in the attached annotated block diagram, used to provide the variable speed three phase motor drive.

[Chris_Vickery]

thanks all. i got the fridge pulled out and determined the outlet is functioning and the loss of power to all fridge functions is occurring somewhere internal to the fridge (i'm anticipating a power distribution board somewhere internal to the fridge which i couldn't find after disassembling a lot of the fridge components). on my boat there was no inverter back there and the AC powered fridge was plugged directly into a 120V outlet. given it's a 21 year old refrigerator that is discontinued by GE my plan is to replace it. anybody have any particular replacements they've used that they like? need something 23.5" wide x 28" deep x 60" tall maximum. I will likely just get an AC powered fridge and then perhaps install an inverter off of the DC system later. for now, i'd just like to get back to being able to store food. thanks again for all the input.

[wingless]

A home refrigerator will not be happy on a boat, it requires continuous vertical operation.

Get a 'fridge w/ a Danfoss compressor, designed for marine application. in a cabinet, dumping the moved heat out the front.

Install the previously described diagnostic LED / resistor to permit understanding why the refrigerator isn't happy w/o yanking from the box.

[wingless]

Again, that 21 year old failed GE refrigerator probably already has a Danfoss compressor.

If so, then it is possible / likely that the electronic control unit has failed. The replacement is "easy" at a reasonable cost.

[wingless]

Here is the Danfoss compressor w/ attached electronic control unit, retained w/ one screw and a three prong plug connector.

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[Chris_Vickery]

wingless - thanks very much for your continued responses, it is very helpful. I certainly understand what you are saying, but the fridge that was in the boat was just a generic model 110V A/C fridge from GE (manual attached). Nothing in the unit is receiving power (light bulb, ice maker, compressor) so the power is being lost ahead or at the point of power distribution to each system. The outlet it is plugged into is functional. I followed the power input wires into the back of the fridge. AFter they enter the fridge has to be the point where they distribute to each system and is hidden. i disassembled most of the fridge to try and get to it but couldn't get there. Again, it is 21 years old so I needed to make a decision about how much time it was worth investing in trying to find the power distribution point and then being able to locate the replacement part the power distribution panel/board/etc in a 21 year old fridge. i certainly see the value in putting a new fridge that has a danfoss compressor, and i will look into options for that, along with running new DC power since currently there is only AC power run to the fridge compartment.

[wingless]

NP

Wow!

FWIW, that boat was built w/ a marine 'fridge, probably a Nocold. At some point it was swapped out to that GE home refrigerator.

That 'fridge (or any home refrigerator) is not appropriate for a boat.

It is "easy" to see for yourself, w/ the home 'fridge compressor running, tip the refrigerator to an angle, not vertical, to simulate the motions on a boat. The compressor will start making very bad sounds until it returns to vertical.

If there is no DC wiring, then make a thick run, according to ABYC. The 'fridge will draw around 15A.

[PiscesPearl]

When My no-cold died I replaced control module for fifty bucks. Still dead so replaced it with a Isotherm. Had charge so after 13 years must of been compressor.