Sea Ray

wingless,

I appreciate your suggestions. I paid closer attention to the times. I found that, after the 3rd on/off cycle, I could not hold the motor more than a second or two since it had gotten so hot. Also noticed that the pressure was ok initially but on the other cycles got progressively lower and was “pulsating”.

Here are the details of the times:

Started after Stopped after
(minutes) (seconds) Comments
------------ --------- --------------
Right away 90 – 120 o Pressure ok,
o Motor not too hot

2-3 60 – 90 o Pressure lower,
o Motor warm
3-4 60 o Pressure even
lower,
o Clicking noise,
o Motor very hot
(could not hold)
4-6 60 Same as previous
cycle.

Seems like I could ether try a rebuild kit or just purchase a new pump. I’m leaning toward getting a new pump. What do you think?

Thanks again for your help.

John

YW

Thanks for the update.

It might be a bad pump, requiring replacement, but I suggest starting w/ more investigation.

How is the flow from the pump w/ the hose disconnected?

What happens when a garden hose w/ a small, fixed brass blaster jet nozzle is jammed into either the hull side outlet or into the inlet from the prior question, to flow garden hose water through the A/C condenser loop?

What happens when garden hose water is forced backwards through the pump / strainer / seacock?

Has the exterior hull scoop inlet been examined / cleaned? FWIW, I HATE those inlets. They are impossible to clean, even on the hard. I replaced all three of mine w/ regular mushroom inlets and Groco APHS inlets, properly bonded to the boat's bonding system.

https://www.groco.net/products/raw-water-strainers/hull-strainer/aphs-series

Has the raw water strainer been opened, emptied and cleaned?

It would suck to replace the pump if the problem is caused by external flow restrictions.

Hi wingless,
I just wanted to say that I've learned an awful lot from you comments / suggestions on the various posts on this forum. Thank you for all your contributions.
John.

As far as my water pump problem, I may not have accurately described the pump and problem. The pump is a small 2.8 GPM pump (see attached picture). It's fed from an 8 gal fresh water tank. There's no other input connections other than the sink sprayer and a stern sprayer.

Since it's 20 years old I'm think I might as well bight the bullet and replace the whole pump, rather than rebuilding it.

What do you think?

Thanks again for all your help,
John

Thanks very much.

Yes, a pump swap seems reasonable to remove / replace the problem.

The replacement setup should remain off until a tap is opened, otherwise indicates a leak.

Thanks and have a wonderful day